There is nothing so frustrating as inconsistency. When it comes to Prada the line which causes some of this is the Les Infusions. Launched in 2007 with Infusion D’Iris it was one of the best perfume releases of that year. Perfumer Daniela Andrier had seemingly translated one of the Prada Exclusives into something similar but different in its opacity. By making Infusion D’Iris lighter she was showing even the deeper perfumes have a lighter side. At the time it was expected that all of the Exclusives would get this treatment. Over the years that has been mostly correct. Ever since that initial release there has been a steady stream of product. Except some of them were just so ethereal they didn’t feel like they were even there. Others were good but not as good as Infusion D’Iris. A few others, Infusion de Vetiver, were as good. I look forward to most of what Mme Andrier does at Prada but Les Infusions had struck out for me. When I received my sample of the latest release Infusion de Mimosa I was surprised to find a strong entry in the collection.
One of the reasons for my dissatisfaction for some of the previous releases might have more to do with timing. This is a line which seems designed to be worn in the summer. A great many of the releases showed up when there was snow on my doorstep. Infusion de Mimosa appeared just as the temperature began to rise. Mimosa is a perfect summer companion in many perfumes I own. Infusion de Mimosa proves to be another.
Mme Andrier opens with the mimosa out in front. The press materials define it as “yellow velvet”. For once I agree with the PR. The mimosa has a soft plush feel. The promo picture in the header gets it just right as the mimosa glows with a warm fuzziness that is tremendously appealing. This is the part where things either get better or worse in many of the previous Les Infusions. This time Mme Andrier adds star anise. It adds a contrasting licorice-like effect to the sweet transparency of the mimosa. Soon after a lilting rose joins in. This is where Infusion de Mimosa lingers for many hours. There are an assembly of clean dry woody notes in the base but they take a long time to gain much traction.
Infusion de Mimosa has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.
Infusion de Mimosa is my favorite of the Les Infusions since the original Infusion D’Iris. It achieves much of the same effect as that debut release by creating a veil of the titular note. That veil is then shaded with a judicious use of well-chosen notes completing an affable companion for the midsummer day and night. I have to say it is nice to have another hit among the misses with Infusion de Mimosa.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample from Prada.