As I say nearly every time, I review a perfume like this, I am not a fan of fruity florals. I guess I think it is a kind of preparation for my approval of a fragrance which belongs to a genre I don’t gravitate towards. The exceptions always tend to be from the independent perfume community. It is probably because they are listening to their vision instead of trying to be the next bottle lying on the shelf at the mall. What that tends to provide is a perfume which succeeds because it will be different. Nicolai Angelys Pear is the latest fruity floral from an independent brand to do this for me.
Patricia de Nicolai
In the “What If?” alternate dimension there has always been the thought of what would Guerlain be like today if Patricia de Nicolai had been chosen to be the perfumer at the house she was born into. I used to think that. If it had come to pass, I wonder if she would have been buffeted by the same winds of commercialism that seemingly drives all the large perfume brands. Instead for the last thirty years Mme de Nicolai has been left to her own creativity to make the best perfume she can. She has stood on her own with an artistic integrity to be admired. Angelys Pear is another excellent addition.
Pear has two faces in perfumery. A greener crisp version or a juicy riper one. In Angelys Pear it is the latter. Of the pear perfumes I own it is the former version I like better. Mme de Nicolai shows me an alternative which is just as delightful.
It opens with the grassy oximes and a sunny flare of citrus. This is a midsummer afternoon accord. The pear steps forward with a juiciness that could get too sweet. To keep it in line, but not overwrite it, Mme de Nicolai uses the sweet tart of blackcurrant to nudge it back away from the sugary abyss. Jasmine and rose come up on either side to form the central fruity floral accord of Angelys Pear. There is an appealing harmony in the balance attained. Mme de Nicolai finishes a with modern chypre accord. I assume she is using the low-atranol oakmoss. She manages to find something I can’t put my finger on to give back the velvety bite that the lack of atranol takes away. I don’t know what it is, but it is fantastic. She uses patchouli and musks to complete her chypre accord. This velvety green accord latches on to the fruity floral to finish this off in style.
Angelys Pear has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
Angelys Pear is going to be a great alternative to all the boring spring debutante roses about to come out. It has an artistic intent to it those commercial perfumes have no concept of. Mme de Nicolai has made a perfume for those who want a different fruity floral.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.