As person who grew up on the beach in S. Florida I’ve always missed the presence of that in most of the aquatic style perfumes. What I’m talking about is the hot dry mineralic scent of the sand. It wasn’t until I learned more about perfume making that it wasn’t a matter of not being able to be done. It was because the brands didn’t think it would be enjoyable by consumers. I don’t know whether that is true. I do know that when I find a perfume which does have it in it, I generally enjoy it. As I have with Memo Vaadhoo.
Vaadhoo is named after the tiny island of the Maldives in the Indian Ocean. This is the island where the sight of bioluminescent plankton is seen most nights during the summer. Sparkling stars in the indigo water on a tropical night. Creative director Clara Molloy along with perfumer Philippe Paparella-Paris capture the sparkle of the plankton amidst the sand and surf.
The early moments are meant to capture this natural phenomenon. Ginger, rhubarb, and bergamot achieve this. So often the latter ingredient is the sparkle in a perfume. Here M. Papparealla-Paris makes it a more diffuse version of that through the ginger and rhubarb. It is a slow lapping motion akin to the waves lapping the beach. The freshness of the flowers comes next with jasmine, violet, and geranium. This is a different version of that. It befits the topical setting trying to be evoked here. Now it is time for the cooling sands of the beach to appear. M. Papparealla-Paris finds this in an accord of Immortelle seed, vetiver, patchouli, and oud. This is the scent of a beach at night. The mineralic sand has cooled a bit making it less arid. This is a fabulous place for the sparkling top accord and the floral heart to rest upon. It comes together in a compelling scented tableau.
Vaadhoo has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
This is a gorgeous take on the tropical beach style of perfume. It is ideal for spring with the florals nested within the heart of it. I floated on the sparkling waves this was based upon each time I wore it.
Disclosure: This review is based upon a sample provided by Memo.