There are moments when I am introducing myself to a new perfume brand that I can see the potential. It doesn’t mean what is there is not enjoyable but there is room for something more. Usually that has something to do with the people behind the perfume. In the case of Maison Sybarite it had to do with their unique formulation technology.
Most of the time I get the press release and begin reading about new technologies with skepticism. In the case of Maison Sybarite they were touting their water formulation. As I read that information before receiving the samples, I wasn’t thinking there was anything new here. Once I had the fragrances in hand, I noticed the non-alcoholic blend of water, olive oil, and saponin had an effect. In those first four releases the carrier added a softer diffusive quality. The perfume didn’t leap off my skin in an alcohol cloud propelled via evaporation. I enjoyed the first four perfumes, but I was wanting for the creative team to take advantage of the formulation with some of the divas of perfume ingredients. In Maison Sybarite Amber Gaze that is what I get.
Antoine Lie
Perfumer Antoine Lie is again behind the composition. I saw a note list featuring jasmine, tuberose, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla. Those are five strong personalities. Amber Gaze would apply a stress test to this new formulation.
The advantages of the formulation are most apparent in the opening moments. The white flowers of tuberose and jasmine lead the way. Here they radiated off my skin in opaque waves. These are cleaned-up low-indolic versions. They have more presence because they aren’t leaping off my skin. The spreading out of these flowers is really appealing. Because of that the set of spices which come next have some new places to find traction. Cardamom breezes over it all while cinnamon provides some warmth from beneath. Nutmeg adds in the sweetness which connects to the base accord. Vanilla and sandalwood form the core while patchouli and tolu balsam provide an earthy piney counterpoint. Usually these have deep effects. I think because of the formulation they also come off much lighter in tone. It all combines to form a compelling whole.
Amber Gaze has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.
One of the things I thought of while wearing Amber Gaze is how this non-alcoholic formulation adds an expansive transparency all its own. All five of the Maison Sybarite collection have a level of that currently trendy style. These are all just a notch less airy and that is where I think I find it more to my taste. Maybe the secret to transparency is the formula. Amber Gaze would imply that is the case.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I received from Maison Sybarite.
–Mark Behnke
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