Ask any perfume lover to name the white flowers and they’ll rapidly rattle off; tuberose, gardenia, jasmine and stop. As Yoda says “there is another” so forgotten it might as well be a lost Jedi. Orange blossom is that fourth white flower. It is usually present in any version of a fragrance given the white flowers sobriquet. It is surprisingly not as popular standing on its own. It has a scent profile that lends itself to some natural pairings. Lubin Eva shows them off.
Lubin has been one of those brands which has enthusiastically embraced the transparent fragrance trend. It has resulted in a string of mostly forgettable releases which seem to only want to be light and airy. As I’ve found that doesn’t have to be a detriment. If I had to classify the string of releases over the last two years, it as if a more full-bodied version is asked to lighten up. They feel oddly incomplete. When I tried the other new release, Anna it was just an ozonic rosy, white musk. I expected the same from Eva. Instead perfumer Delphine Thierry who did both is able to work with a little more intent using orange blossom as her keynote. She creates a luminous version of it.
One of the surprises throughout my wearing of Eva were these vivacious grace notes Mme Thierry uses. It begins right on top as lemon fortified petitgrain is given a juicy underpinning through passionfruit. It adds an appealing roundness to the tart citrus. The heart is equal parts orange blossom and neroli. These are well-suited to each other forming a spring-like floral accord. The grace note in the heart is the fizz of ginger. It adds in a lively freshness to the floral. Musk is one of those partners to orange blossom that just fits. Mme Thierry balances a lighter version into Eva. The nice addition in the base is a warm amber to give the musky floral some coziness.
Eva has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
Eva is a great choice for this year’s spring floral. Part if it is this version of freshness for the season also has that musky base to add in a little mystery. If you are looking for an alternative to the rose offerings everywhere else don’t forget about the other white flower and Eva.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample supplied by Lubin.