It has been awhile since I received an envelope containing a large collection of new releases that made me sigh with frustration. I couldn’t get out of 2020 without having one. Shoe designer Christian Louboutin has decided to double down and repeat some of their previous missteps on a larger scale.
It always surprises me when a creative director who is so smart in their field seemingly loses that when they move to perfume. In 2016 the brand released their first three perfumes. They were mostly dreary utilitarian tropes done competently. I liked Trouble in Heaven best because it was the only one which had a glimmer of imagination. I pretty much thought that was going to be it for Christian Louboutin fragrance.
Unfortunately, they are back with the same boring attitude with seven new perfumes in the Loubiworld collection. This time the bottles seem to be the selling point because they are easily the most interesting thing about all of them. Glass bottles in Louboutin red topped with fanciful silver ornamental caps. The perfume inside. Want a faux-oud? You have two choices Loubicroc or Loubicrown. Want a rose fruity floral? Choose from Loubidoo or Loubifunk. As boring a white floral as you can imagine? Loubikiss will make you yawn. Loubiraj is the functional lipstick iris. Despite my collective shoulder shrug I did find one which wasn’t bad, Christian Louboutin Loubirouge.
Marie Salamagne
Perfumer Marie Salamagne is behind Loubirouge. Probably why I like it more than the others is it falls into the floral gourmand trend which hasn’t been repeated incessantly into meaninglessness. Don’t get me wrong there is nothing unusual in the way the perfume is built. It is just a good example in a perfume style that isn’t played out.
It opens with that green cardamom which has a nice combination of the citrus and herbal. Some coriander gives a hint of woodiness. Iris comes with its rooty and powdery aspects on display. It is the former which merges with a rich vanilla to form a tasty gourmand accord. Leather surrounds that with a reminder of exactly what the designer makes. Eventually the monolith of ambrox sweeps it all away.
Loubirouge has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
For a perfume line based on one of the most iconic shoe designers Loubirouge is the only one to have just a hint of leather in it. Someday a marketer is going to have to explain to me why these kinds of decisions are made. As you shop this Holiday season these bottles are going to undoubtedly catch your eye. Just think of them as ornaments for your dresser. If you must buy one to wear Loubirouge is your best option.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample set provided by Saks.
–Mark Behnke
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