I think when you look out at fragrance industry that produces so many new fragrances it is easy to become a bit jaded. I know one of the things which keeps that from happening to me is watching the younger generation of perfumers begin to develop what will become their signature style. One of those younger perfumers who I am enjoying watch evolve is Julien Rasquinet. It Is early on in his career but one of the things which I am finding he is particularly adept at is forming a specific accord as a focal point for many of the perfumes he composes. His latest for Histoires de Parfums is called Fidelis and it shows this.
Gerald Ghislain
Another thing I have admired about M. Rasquinet is his ability to collaborate with creative directors. Gerald Ghislain has been the creative director behind Histoires de Parfums since its inception in 2000. His vision for what makes an entry in his brand has been remarkably consistent over that time. Fidelis is the seventh perfume in the Editions Rare line, following the two trilogies of Ambrarem, Petroleum, Rosam and Veni, Vidi, Vici. Fidelis stands on its own.
Julien Rasquinet
The Editions Rare releases are set to the theme of different types of gold. Fidelis is meant to be pink gold. Pink gold is actually an alloy of about 20% copper and 80% gold. The alloy has an unusual beauty as it seems like the yellow gold provides a warmth to the copper producing pink. M. Rasquinet also goes for a similar effect in Fidelis taking the well-known oud and rose combination and adding a cardamom laced spice accord to ensnare it.
Fidlelis opens on a fabulous rich cardamom. I relished the first few moments every time I wore Fidelis. As a cardamom lover this is so good I want M. Ghislain to just release the cardamom. That is not what makes a whole composition and M. Rasquinet takes this cardamom and wraps it up with saffron and cumin. This is the accord building I am speaking of which is becoming a characteristic of M. Rasquinet. The saffron provides a shimmery warmth to the cool cardamom. The cumin adds a more primal element to the accord. Together this is a deeply satisfying cardamom accord. The note list mentions coffee but it never came out on my skin. The heart is rose with a bit of raspberry accentuating the sweet over the spicy as the top accord is persisting into the heart and carries the spice quotient. All of this rests on a base of oud, amber, and patchouli. Here the cumin comes full circle and pulls the patchouli into the spice accord. The oud harmonizes with that accord as the amber and the rose fill in the spaces.
Fidelis has 16-18 hour longevity and average sillage.
I am coming to categorize M. Rasquinet’s perfumes in my head based on their accords. Fidleis goes down as the “amazing cardamom, cumin, and saffron” one. If you are a fan of spices in perfume and cardamom in particular Fidelis needs to be on your list to try. It is my favorite of the Editions Rare.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Histoires de Parfums.
–Mark Behnke
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