Colognoisseur Holiday Perfume Buyer’s Guide 2019 Part 1- At The Mall

It is Thanksgiving in the US. It is also the pause before the frantic Holiday shopping season. Which will begin at about the same time the dishwasher is turned on in most homes. Black Friday has now encroached on the day before.

Fragrance is always a popular choice as a gift. I think it can be a difficult effort because we all experience scent so differently. I have posted a way which requires some extra steps but can make perfume an intimate gift at this link.

For most everyone else they are just going to be faced with sales reps trying to tell you this is the best perfume ever. They’re probably incorrect but you never know. To help navigate the season I am going to spend the next three days with different buyer’s guides. Today in Part 1 it is what has come out over the past year at the mall. Tomorrow in Part 2 for Small Business Saturday I will focus on small stand-alone perfume boutique offerings. Finally, in Part 3 for Cyber Monday I’ll have some suggestions for things to click on and get delivered to your home.

This list should all be available at large department stores. Links to the full reviews can be found in the names.

Aerin Rose Cocoa followed up last year’s Holiday offering of Cocoa Woods. This is a gently spicy rose gourmand perfume where the cocoa acts as chocolate snow upon the rose.

Bastide Verveine du Sud is a perfume from the husband-and-wife team of Frederic and Shirin Fekkai inspired by their Provence home. Verveine du Sud is a Provencal twilight as the cool night meets the green florals.

By Rosie Jane Lake is a new discovery by me but I admire the well-blended perfumes of the brand for their simple aesthetic. Lake takes you on a fall hike around Lake Tahoe.

Chanel Gabrielle Essence follows the release of Gabrielle two years ago. Perfume Olivier Polge turns Gabrielle Essence into a sweeter floral than its predecessor which I think exudes a greater assurance.

Ellis Brooklyn West is another release from Bee Shapiro’s excellent line of fragrance. Working again with perfumer Jerome Epinette they create an unusual citrus perfume featuring basil and blood orange.

M. Epinette is also the nose behind Floral Street Ylang Ylang Espresso. In this case he takes a fractionated version of ylang ylang which is contrasted with a bitter oily coffee bean accord. If you’re sick of sweet gourmands, this is a great alternative.

Twilly D’Hermes Eau Poivree is a perfume which wanted to be a modern floral for a contemporary woman. Perfumer Christine Nagel uses herbal baie rose, powdery rose, and a less earthy patchouli to create a simply elegant perfume.

If you need a cologne for the men in your life who only want a bottle or two, Zaharoff Signature pour Homme is exactly that. Perfumer Claude Dir creates a classic woody fougere that feels young instead of dated. Probably the best thing on the Men’s Fragrance counter at the mall today.

I am going to end with a suggestion that you should be careful about buying for someone who doesn’t wear a lot of perfume. But you should absolutely consider it for anyone in your circle who is a perfume fan.

Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur is unlike anything else in the mass-market sector. Creative director Alessandro Michele and perfumer Alberto Morillas are asking the provocative question, will consumers take a step out of their comfort zone. This is an incredibly intricate perfume focused on the edgy floral chamomile. It is the kind of perfume which comes around so rarely in the mainstream.

To all my US readers Happy Thanksgiving! To everyone else I hope this helps you when you end up at the perfume counter.

Disclosure: The manufacturers provided samples of all the perfumes mentioned.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Ellis Brooklyn West- Summer Cooler

One of the trends of the last year or so which I have been happy to see is the mass-market perfume executed with niche independence. What I mean by that is there are a few brands which are being distributed at the mall which have partnered with top perfumers and allowed them some freedom to create. The results of this has been some very good perfume; Ellis Brooklyn West is a good example.

Bee Shapiro

Ellis Brooklyn was founded by Bee Shapiro who is a beauty editor at The New York Times. In that position she must have had an insight on where she could create a different mass-market fragrance. Over the last two years the perfume she has produced has borne that out. Ms. Shapiro has made her own space in a crowded marketplace.

Jerome Epinette

For West the press release trumpets this as the “first citrus” for Ellis Brooklyn. I could quibble with that because citrus ingredients have played a prominent role in previous releases. What this translates to me is West is the first summer style of perfume for the brand.

Perfumer Jerome Epinette uses some interesting ingredients to form West. It starts right at the top with the choice of blood orange. Blood orange has been having a moment this summer as I’ve encountered it a few times so far this year. A big reason for that might be because it carries a less exuberant effect than orange. There is a slight bitterness underneath the pulpy sweetness. M. Epinette uses basil to give that an herbal veil. In the heart he employs water lily as a dewy floral to give that refreshing quality of misted water. The base is the fresh green of vetiver warmed with a touch of amber.

West has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.

West is one of those perfect beach bag perfumes to take on a summer weekend away. It is the kind of perfume companion which adds to the pleasure of taking some time off. I will be putting a sample of this in my perfume fridge as a summer cooler for the upcoming ravages of midsummer.

Disclosure: this review is based on a sample provided by Sephora.

Mark Behnke