Perfumers all have their unique trajectories. The best can travel between genres and styles. It makes it especially interesting when I think they up their level of difficulty as they do that. Independent perfumer Anais Biguine is doing that with Chapel Factory Heresy.
Anais Biguine
Mme Biguine first came to my attention with her first collection under the brand name Jardins d’Ecrivains. It took its name seriously as she created a perfume garden of writers. These are complex kinetic constructs. I own my favorites which make up a little bookshelf of perfume. For her new brand Chapel Factory she is moving towards a much more focused inspiration. As the name kind of gives away she is all about incense. At this point in time most of the products are room fragrances, incense, diffusers, and candles. Heresy is the only perfume in the line.
Heresy is that scent of church incense. The austere silvery frankincense which seemingly impregnates the bricks and timbers of an old church. I adore that scent when visiting a historical church. There is a sense of time extending backwards. Heresy isn’t a photorealistic close-up of incense. Instead it is that reminder of when it was burned the day before. Mme Biguine seems to be moving towards simpler but no less compelling fragrances.
She begins with that frankincense out front. It isn’t as sharp as it can be nor as metallic. It has a mellowness. To add a bit of that back she uses black pepper. It is used in a subtle way more reminiscent of the scent of old wood. It forms an old church accord. It is deepened through sandalwood while the incense rises to a gentle swirl of resin. It finishes with patchouli and vetiver adding in an accord of the church walls.
Heresy has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
Heresy is built to keep you at arm’s length. Mme Biguine has chosen to let her incense whisper. It allows it to float in beautiful spirals in the air. There are two more perfumes coming soon. Based on Heresy I am looking forward to both.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.
–Mark Behnke
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