Chanel 101- Five to Get You Started

There is no single perfume which is ingrained in popular culture more than Chanel No. 5. It has come to represent luxury, style, aldehydes, heck even perfume itself. I’ve left giving Chanel the 101 treatment for so long because of that elephant in the perfumed parlor. The question I kept asking myself was would I introduce someone just beginning to explore perfume to Chanel No. 5 as the first Chanel to try. After almost two years of thinking about this I think the answer is Chanel No. 5 is best appreciated if you come to it after having tried many other perfumes. Below are the five Chanel fragrances I think are the best place to start learning about the perfumed side of Chanel.

ernest beaux

Ernest Beaux

Ernest Beaux was a genius and that is borne out because he followed up Chanel No. 5 with a string of successful fragrance one after the other. Bois des Iles was M. Beaux’s ode to sandalwood. Before you get to the sandalwood in the base you go through a phase of coriander and petitgrain followed by a floral mix of jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang. When you get to the sandalwood it is strengthened with ambrette seed along with other musks. A judicious use of vanilla brings out the creaminess of sandalwood. If you own Bois des Iles you pretty much don’t need another sandalwood perfume in your collection.

Cuir de Russie was M. Beaux’s entry into the leather perfume category. He would create one of the most redolent leather accords using birch, styrax, and cade wood. If this was all there was to Cuir de Russie it would still be good. What makes it a classic is the opening of orange blossom which transforms into jasmine before the leather gallops through the garden. One of the earliest leather perfumes and to this day still one of the greatest.

jacques polge

Jacques Polge

In 1981 perfumer Jacques Polge would begin his time as in-house perfumer at Chanel. He would bring the perfumed side of Chanel back to life in a big way with Coco. M. Polge worked in a diametrically opposite way from M. Beaux. Coco is a perfume so filled with concepts and flourishes it is like trying to follow a Fourth of July fireworks show on your skin. M. Polge refines the concept of fruity floral by adding in peach to the lightly floral frangipani and mimosa. This top accord is what every fruity floral since has tried, and mostly failed, to achieve. M. Polge mixes clove with a beautiful Rose Otto with jasmine also present. It provides a sultry floral heart. The base is mainly patchouli but with a number of grace notes surrounding it with musk being the most prominent. Coco comes in both Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum. It is the Eau de Parfum you should seek out.

If I was going to pick one perfume to introduce someone to Chanel it would be Coco Mademoiselle. Seventeen years after the creation of Coco M. Polge collaborated with Francois Demachy with whom he co-authored many of the best Chanels during this time period. Coco Mademoiselle as the name portends is the younger fresher cousin to Coco. It is a marriage of orange followed by rose and jasmine before heading to a base which is a bit like a faux chypre. Patchouli and vetiver create a chypre-ish vibe as a cocktail of white musks keep it on the clean side. Coco Mademoiselle is the most accessible of the entire brand.

M. Polge would create a contemporary chypre with 31 Rue Cambon. When Chanel launched the Les Exclusifs M. Polge showed he could make a classical perfume with the best of them. 31 Rue Cambon is a chypre which seduces with softer lines than usual in this style of perfume. It still carries the strong green nucleus but M. Polge blurs the edgy qualities and turns it into something more meditative. It is M. Polge’s modern interpretation which makes it something amazing.

Chanel has become such an iconic perfume brand because it has never rested on its reputation generated by Chanel No. 5. For almost 100 years it has stood for some of the best perfume you can experience. The five above are good places to begin.

Disclosure: This review is based on bottles I purchased.

Mark Behnke

Colognoisseur 2015 Hopes and Wishes

After spending the last three days looking back over 2014 it is now time to turn our attention from over our shoulder to the far horizon. For the first day of 2015 I have a few things I hope and wish for to have happen over the next 365 days.

olivier and jacques polge

Olivier (l.) and Jacques Polge

I really want Chanel to make another great perfume. The last one which was at this level was 2008’s Sycomore for the Les Exclusifs Collection. For a brand which is one of the pillars of modern perfumery that is far too long. I hope Polge Pere et Fils collaborate on something which reminds all of us that this is one of the great perfume labels.

I hope Estee Lauder treats its new properties, Le Labo and Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, with the respect they showed by wanting to acquire them. I believe they are going to do a good job with them. I hope I am right twelve months from now.

I am extremely curious to see the first perfume Christine Nagel produces for Hermes. I think she will be a worthy successor to Jean-Claude Ellena. I hope her first effort confirms that.

I want a big crossover success for an independent perfumer. When Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain was the first to do this in 2005 it seemed like we were on the cusp of perfume by the little guys making as big an impact as the conglomerates. Since then we have not seen a success of that magnitude. There is too much talent out there right now and the Estee Lauder acquisitions has brought attention back to the niche and independent perfume sector. I know one of you has something in your creative imagination that can do this. I wish for everyone to know how good you are.

I hope the second edition of The Art + Olfaction Awards continues to grow and nurture the independent perfume community. The huge jump in submissions for the upcoming edition tells me this is more of a certainty than anything else on this page.


I hope Elements Showcase returns to New York this year. As the only US example of the great European fairs like Esxence and Pitti Fragranze I have always wanted it to succeed. As of right now they haven’t announced plans for 2015. I hope it isn’t too far into the year that I have some dates to put on my calendar.

I wish for less new releases in 2015. I also wish for a world free of hunger. Both of these wishes have about the same chance of happening.

One non-perfume hope is for the new Star Wars: The Force Awakens to be the Star Wars movie I’ve been waiting thirty years for. I think JJ Abrams is the man who can actually pull that off.

high dive

Finally, I wish for a very happy and healthy 2015 to all the readers of Colognoisseur. One year ago I was looking off the edge of the high dive deciding if I wanted to do my own blog. It took me a month to finally get the nerve to take the leap. For all of you looking from the edge of your own platform at that water way down there, I hope you decide to take the leap.

Mark Behnke