It seems as if the Heritage perfume brands have slowed down recently. A couple of years ago I was seemingly receiving the announcement of one new one every couple of months. A few years on from that, now I can look back and remark on the ones which successfully found their place in the current market. One of those would be Blocki Perfumes. Overseen by Tyler Delabar and Tammy Kraemer they extrapolated the heritage of Mr. Delabar’s great grandfather John Blocki into contemporary fragrance making. That continues with Blocki Saharet and Blocki Kosciuszko.
The path they’ve chosen for Blocki is to use the names of the perfumes as launching points for new formulations. It makes for an interesting combination as the personalities of the early part of the last century are who seemed to motivate Mr. Blocki to make perfume. Both Saharet and Tadeusz Kosciuszko fit that.
Saharet is inspired by the fin de siècle dancer of the same name. She was a well-known vaudevillian of the time. She traveled the world using publicity stunts to introduce her to audiences when she arrived in a new city. Perfumer Lionel Nesbitt translates this into a perfume with a keynote of geranium covered in shades of green.
Geranium has been referred to as “green rose” Mr. Nesbitt does a fine job of living up to that. In the early going he uses baie rose and green cardamom to dust that green rose. Mandarin provides a sweet come-hither effect. The exploration of green continues as labdanum and vetiver turn it up a notch. The vetiver used here is the grassier kind providing a softer verdancy than the sharper labdanum. At the center of it all the geranium happily perches. This ends on a warm earthy base of patchouli, amber, and cashmere.
Kosciuszko is inspired by the Polish engineer who participated in revolutions the world over. He is most known in the US for joining in with the American Revolutionaries bringing knowledge of the best fortifications from which to fight behind. Perfumer Duff Scott engineers a perfume with hints of the battlefield and the calm between it all.
Mr. Scott chooses a piquant combination of bitter orange and black pepper to open things with. The pepper segues into that hint of gunpowder. Beneath that a potent accord of fir and tobacco forms the nucleus of Kosciuszko. The terpenes of the fir are sweetened by the honeyed depths of the tobacco. Mr. Scott finds a beautiful balance between the two. The base goes woodier as cedar and cypress provide that with a bit of musk thrown in.
Saharet and Kosciuszko have 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
Mr. Delabar and Ms. Kraemer continue to find the best path to success is to grow your own heritage. Saharet and Kosciuszko add to that legacy.
Disclosure: This review is based on samples provided by Blocki.