As the independent perfume market has grown over the past ten years it has become difficult to tell someone where to start. The very essence of the indie perfumer is doing things a little different, sometimes a lot different. If a consumer new to this sector is adventurous just jumping in and letting your nose take you where it may, is best. For most they want to enter at the shallow end of the pool cautiously easing themselves in. One of the problems with that is there is a lot less indie perfumes in that shallow end of the pool. Which is why I am pleased with independent perfumer Andy Tauer’s brand Tauerville.
Andy Tauer
Tauerville was created at the end of 2014 with the release of Rose Flash. Throughout 2015 three more releases were added; Vanilla Flash, Incense Flash and the latest Amber Flash. Tauerville was a place where Hr. Tauer wanted to “experiment”. He has certainly done that by taking some of his well-known effects from his main Tauer Perfumes line and tweaking them slightly. When I tried the first three Tauerville fragrances all at once it was that which I noticed first. Having had a few months to spend with them now I have realized that they are also very approachable examples of an independent perfumer’s aesthetic meant to entice you in to the indie perfumes pool at the shallow end. Amber Flash might be the introductory step leading into that metaphorical pool.
When I first smelled Amber Flash I was once again drawn to where I believe Hr. Tauer is tweaking something. In the case of Amber Flash I believe it is the spicy woody incense accord found in many Tauer Perfumes dubbed “Tauerade”. It is an olfactive signature for many of the perfumes in that line but it is strong. In Amber Flash it feels like Hr. Tauer has fashioned a low calorie version of Tauerade easier to experience and embrace. It is surrounded by other notes which enhance the softer version of this signature.
Amber Flash opens with what is often used as a substitute for ambergris, labdanum. In this case it provides the less aggressive aspects of amber and allows the wearer to ease into the rest of the development. It fairly quickly deepens as patchouli combines with the labdanum leading to an earthy kind of feel to this part of Amber Flash. This is where in a different indie take on this concept something strong would seal the deal making it a different kind of earthy. Hr. Tauer instead just adds a bit of vanilla to keep it a little on the sweet end and much more approachable. Then we get to the Tauerade-lite base. In regular Tauerade there is a strength to that base which has so often provided the foundation to many of the Tauer Perfumes that I wait for it with delight. In Amber Flash that accord is modulated into something much softer only hinting at the strength of the full Tauerade. In Amber Flash sandalwood, cashemran, amber, and benzoin form this lighter weight version. It is the perfect way to finish Amber Flash because it displays an aesthetic without clobbering you over the head with it.
Amber Flash has 16-18 hour longevity and moderate sillage.
One could arguably make the argument that the independent perfume explosion began with the Chandler Burr review of Tauer Perfumes L’Air du Desert Marocain. Which is why with the Tauerville line I am happy to see Hr. Tauer finding a new way to entice perfume lovers into the indie perfumer’s world. Amber Flash is a great place to begin for anyone considering that.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Tauerville.
–Mark Behnke
