Tuberose is one of those components of perfumery which carries a boisterous reputation. It is a love it/ hate it kind of ingredient. Most of the reason for the dichotomy of response is because it dominates almost any construct it is used in. You just can’t easily overlook it. It also mainly presents itself as this uber-floral and rarely in any other form. Then over the last year I began to notice a shift as many of the perfumes which had tuberose listed had found a greener slightly less extroverted alternative.
Independent perfumer Andy Tauer must have also been intrigued by this greener version of tuberose because it is the focal point of the new Tauer Sotto La Luna Tuberose. Sotto La Luna means “under the moon” and in the case of the tuberose for this new release it almost acts as a way of using moonlight to wash out some of the intensity of tuberose as if viewed in the moonlight. The other thing about Sotto La Luna Tuberose is Hr. Tauer really attempts to discern just how green you can make the tuberose. The answer turns out to be the greener the better.
Hr. Tauer starts Sotto La Luna Tuberose off with a mix of spice on top of a very green chord. The spices are cinnamon and mostly clove. The green comes from geranium and a very lively galbanum. The galbanum washes over the spices and the geranium in a swoosh of power. This sets the stage for the greener version of tuberose to arrive next. What I like so much about this greener version is the camphoraceous character inherent in tuberose is more easily discerned. The green facet in this version of tuberose is very similar to the green character you find in lily. The heart brings together the galbanum the green tuberose and a few other florals; ylang-ylang, jasmine and rose. The ylang-ylang provides an unctuous underpinning. Right here is that tuberose glittering in the moonlight. Because tuberose is a night blooming flower the base notes move towards the more familiar tuberose as if the moonlight has brought it to life. As the tuberose in the base takes hold the green fades to the background and an earthy patchouli along with ambergris ground the final phase in the moist earth.
Sotto La Luna Tuberose has 10-12 hour longevity and above average sillage.
I don’t think Sotto La Luna Tuberose will be the perfume to entice those in the “hate it” camp to come around. Mainly because over the last quarter of the time I wore it the transition to the base becomes a more typical tuberose. The beginning of the perfume with the depth galbanum provides to the green tuberose is where there is something different to consider. That is where those in the “love it” category will find something new to enjoy in a tuberose.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Tauer Perfumes.
Editor’s Note: For those in the New York City area Andy Tauer will be visiting Twisted Lily on Saturday November 7, 2015 from 1-4PM. Besides premiering Sotto La Luna Tuberose he will also be bringing along an experimental fragrance called “Dark Mysterious Woods”. If you live nearby please go say hello to one of the nicest guys in all of perfumery.