When fashion designers make the jump to putting their name on a perfume it works best when the scent reflects the fashion. I remember attending a Monique Lhuiller runway show at a New York Fashion Week a few years ago. The best designers have a flow to their collections. This show was all about diaphanous fabrics over slim silhouettes. It was so memorable it has stuck with me since I saw it. I look forward to looking at each season’s collection because of it. When I heard spring of 2020 was going to bring us the first Monique Lhuiller perfume I was hoping this would translate to fragrance.
Ms. Lhuiller chose Maurice Roucel as the perfumer she wanted to work with. Together they captured this aesthetic through a fresh floral. I went back and looked through the Spring 2020 collection for what I thought might be a companion piece to the perfume. The one above is the one which reminded me most of what I was smelling. It is a floral on top of a dark violet and patchouli base.
It opens with a sheer floral effect through hyacinth and muguet. This is floral freshness given some grounding with blackcurrant bud. The inherent green of that finds harmony with the same quality of the muguet. All this flows in opaque waves. Freesia adds even more of a fresh floral quality. Rose and ylang-ylang are here to keep it from floating away like a cloud. The latter two flowers keep this from being too much the blushing bride. They give it an aura of sophistication. This leads to the slim silhouette represented by violet and patchouli. M. Roucel takes patchouli and tints it dark purple with the violet. It adds a gorgeous depth to all the floral lightness without overriding it. Some woods and musks round things out.
Monique Lhuiller has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
This is a spring floral of fresh flowers over a deep base accord. It is unlike any other new spring floral release this year because of it. It is this kind of perfume I wish for every spring. Monique Lhuiller is this year’s version. Ms. Lhuiller is known for her bridal gowns. I can see this being a big hit as a wedding day perfume under any designer’s wedding dress. The ineffable beauty of her fashion has been captured in a perfume of violet light.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Monique Lhuiller.