While the ongoing pandemic affected the flow of new perfume samples through the summer. Once we hit the fall it was as if brands were making up for lost time. I think I’ve received more new perfume at a higher rate than ever before. Which means a new brand landing in my mailbox ends up not getting much attention. Especially when it comes with beauty buzzword pr about new formulations. Late one night I gave it a try and was hooked right away be Maison Sybarite 720.
Antoine Lie
My interest in Maison Sybarite sprang from the participation of perfumer Antoine Lie. After I requested my samples I went through their website. They tout their new non-alcoholic carrier of the perfume oil. Their technology is a “microemulsion” of olive oil, water, and saponin. The latter is what allows the formulation to spread on your skin. Because of this new formulation they had to rethink the proportions that go into their perfumes. M. Lie mentions that he used higher concentrations in his work for the brand. Usually I find this stuff to be salesmanship instead of something which really makes a difference. After trying the first four perfumes from the brand I can detect a softer diffusiveness to the way the fragrance is released. It is most apparent in the first few minutes as the scent isn’t propelled off the skin by evaporating alcohol. It stays closer to the skin with a gentler introduction to the perfume. Of this first collection while they were daring with the new technology that did not spread to the perfume.
The inspiration for the line comes from the ancient land of Sybaris. 720 takes its name from the year, 720 BC, it was founded. It is the only one of the first four releases which captures the sensual quality of a sybarite.
It opens with a powdery cinnamon supported by cardamom and nutmeg. This is a place where the formulation is an advantage. I suspect in a traditional alcohol base this would have smelled like a blast of red-hot candies. Because it is more spread out the cinnamon gets more room to evolve. Which also provides more traction to the other two spices. This also happens in the heart as birch tar and lavender form a fantastic accord. M. Lie uses the herbal green floral lavender and coats it with strands of birch tar. Beyond what ever challenges he faced with the new formulation the balance of the rich birch tar and the lavender is amazing. It takes an animalic turn as patchouli and tonka bean inserts itself. It moves from asphalt road in summer to sensual bedchamber. It is a fascinating evolution. In the end cedar and ambrox add that sturdy woody base accord familiar to many.
720 has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.
The perfumes of Maison Sybarite are not skin scents, but they also don’t have as much presence as traditional formulas. I appreciate the lowering of the volume. I found it gave more space for all the perfumes to fill. 720 is a trip in which I find the softness of pleasure.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample set I received from Maison Sybarite.
–Mark Behnke
