All good perfumers are versatile creators. The ones I tend to like best can make any style of perfume. That doesn’t mean they may have one or two styles where they seem to have a greater affinity towards them. For perfumer Bruno Jovanovic he has become one of the best producers of what I call Cologne Nouveau. That is a modern interpretation of the venerable cologne formula. M. Jovanovic seems to truly enjoy finding new life in the style that was created over 200 years ago. L’Homme Rochas is the latest by him. For this version he uses newer pieces of the palette to find a new path to the simple classic.
Bruno Jovanovic
L’Homme Rochas is the first masculine release for this brand since 2007’s Desir de Rochas Homme. Considering that my favorite vintage masculines are Rochas releases it is high time they tried to be as influential as they used to be. It seems like M. Jovanovic is trying to find that path within the current transparent trend.
Cologne opens with citrus. Usually lemon. M. Jovanovic finds the modern compromise in blood orange. The source of blood orange used in perfume finds a middle ground between the tartness of lemon and the juiciness of orange. It is then supported by two other ingredients to accentuate both of those facets. Cardamom provides its herbal lemony breeze just as pineapple provides a juicy sweetness. The balance M. Jovanovic finds in this top accord is delightful. The heart of a cologne is floral and herb. Here it is geranium and basil where they together provide a green tinted veil to observe the citrus top accord through. In another contemporary touch M. Jovanovic uses the gin character of juniper to make a dry martini out of all of it. To give this some depth M. Jovanovic turns to an Oriental inspired base accord of tonka bean and patchouli. It tethers all the above to an earthbound hay colored patchouli.
L’Homme Rochas has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
While it has been unusually warm for January, when I tested this, I think it is going to be especially good when things warm up. This is going to be at its best when the mercury is popping. I can add L’Homme Rochas to the other Cologne Nouveau creations I wear during that time of year.
Disclosure: this review is based on a sample provided by Rochas.
–Mark Behnke
