There are perfume ingredients which seemingly find their way into a high percentage of all fragrance products. Everyone is familiar with them, the typical florals, the classic woods, and the juicy fruits. If I had them laying out on a table in their natural form, you would probably easily identify all of them. There is one ubiquitous perfume component I bet most have little idea what it looks like; vetiver. It is used so often because it is so versatile. Its profile varies dependent on the region of the world it is grown in. Perfumers can choose the kind they want for the corresponding effect it will have. This is where independent perfumer Tanja Bochnig began her latest perfume April Aromatics Vetiver Coeur.
This is vetiver
Fr. Bochnig is one of the early independent perfumers who has grown into being among the best. Over the last four years her perfumes have shown the imprint of an author who knows her subject well. One of the things which has helped define the overall April Aromatics aesthetic is Fr. Bochnig’s experience as a licensed yoga teacher. It informs her use of specific ingredients. As it does here. Vetiver has been one of those oils which has been purported to impart an inner harmony. While that is probably true; I imagine some of the smokier versions of vetiver I have smelled would impart panic that something was burning nearby. Fr. Bochnig was looking for the harmonious version. She describes it as a “soft vetiver”. She sourced it from Haiti, one of the largest producers of vetiver in the world. For Vetiver Coeur she places that vetiver at the center of a perfume built upon harmony of composition.
Her vetiver is apparent right from the start. She has found a source which has removed much of the sharp green vetiver usually displays early on. It does enhance the citrus-y scent vetiver also has. She adds in some other citrus with orange and lemon to form an early sunniness. The green that has been lost is brought back by using coriander and clary sage. Fr. Bochnig can use these as replacements which allow her to fine tune the proper amount of green she wants present. It is evidence of a confident perfumer to be able to provide this kind of shading. The heart is a gorgeous conversation between orange blossom and the vetiver. This is a rich slightly indolic orange blossom which finds the intersection of woody and green to park itself at. On my skin this is where Vetiver Coeur ligers for many hours. It is a harmonious place to be. Eventually the base of authentic Mysore sandalwood, tobacco and orris propose a warmer place for the vetiver to settle upon. Fr. Bochnig uses these ingredients to form a comforting final piece of Vetiver Coeur.
Vetiver Coeur has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
Vetiver Coeur is a deeply engaging vetiver perfume. I’m not sure if it affected my inner harmony. It surely affected my appreciation for Fr. Bochnig’s ability as a perfumer to find the right vetiver harmonies in a perfume.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by April Aromatics.