I was one class away from having a double major in mathematics. There has always been a part of me that enjoys a field of study which usually ends up in an answer. Chemistry has been less reliable in that regard. I don’t often get the opportunity to pull from what now seems like ancient knowledge. When I saw the label for Anatole Lebreton Racine Carree my atrophied math geek took notice. The label is the name of the brand under a square root symbol. It is an oddly fitting choice for this perfume.
This is a fascinating fragrance built around perfume ingredients which are roots. M. Lebreton was going to use vetiver as the focal point. His idea was to create something which reflects the earthiness of that undertaking. He uses carrot, celery, orris, cypriol, and licorice. The fragrance that results from this is not mathematical but something of Nature.
The vetiver used here is a deeper version. He eschews the fresher facets to highlight the earthy aspects. To keep it from becoming too intense he uses the vegetal freshness of celery. This is a fascinating surrogate for the grassiness of most vetivers. It adds some uplift while still staying attached to the soil.
Orris comes next. This is the classic rooty ingredient. Just as with the vetiver the choice it to tilt it towards the rhizomal over the powdery. To accomplish this carrot is used as a complement to drive the orris in that direction. It makes it sweeter in the way carrot is.
The final piece is the combination of licorice and cypriol. Licorice as used here is not the candy you eat at the theatre. It is the herbal version popular in Europe. Cypriol adds its own roughness to that. Clary sage acts as an enhancer of the herbalness.
The final piece of is chamomile. It is the linchpin to all three of the accords as it has a scent profile built to tie it all together. When that happens you are surrounded by the root of it all. Ambrox is used to add a dry woody finish to all of it.
Racine Carree has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
This is my favorite perfume M. Lebreton has made. He has always been an interesting creative perfumer. In this case he has found a mathematical balance to make a perfume as elegant as a square root.
Disclosure: this review is based on a sample I purchased.
Editor’s Note: For those of you interested in the nuts and bolts of perfumery. M. Lebreton offers a Racine Box on his website. It contains 7.5mL of the perfume and 10 X 2.5mL vials of the ingredients used.