Buongiorno Perfume Lovers! The start of Day 2 was the panel on creating a harmonious relationship between brand and retailer moderated by Sarah Colton of ThePerfumeMagazine.com and Beauty Fashion Magazine. This was really a continuation of the panel Ms. Colton hosted at last year’s Esxence. This year there was a strong consensus that clear communication between brand owners and retailers on their goals are the biggest key to a fruitful, and profitable, relationship. This was once again a fast moving thought-provoking panel and much of the credit must go to Ms. Colton for steering her panelists into the more notworthy aspects of this relationship.
After the fast moving ninety minute presentation it was time to go visit Marc-Antoine Corticchiato at Parfum D’Empire where I was introduced to the new Corsica Furiosa. This is the first new Parfum D’Empire since 2012’s Musc Tonkin. The tagline for this is “furiously green” and while I wouldn’t use furious as an adjective this is a kaleidoscopic green fragrance ever revealing new shades throughout the time it develops on skin.
Next was Carlos Huber who had two new Arquiste releases to debut. The first is called L’Etrog Acqua which is a variant on the original L’Etrog. Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux decided he wanted a more summer version of L’Etrog and so he ditched the dried fruit accord at the heart and replaced it with lavender, myrtle and more woods. The result is a much fresher and greener fragrance bursting with sunshine. The other new fragrance is called The Architects Club as Mr. Huber asked perfumer Yann Vasnier to create a fragrance capturing a Lost Generation 1930 club in Mayfair London. The early going is all textural effects before they get doused with all of the ingredients of a dry martini. There is a fantastic inflection as The Architects Club goes from Parlor to Party almost in the blink of an eye.
Perfumer Cecile Zarokian seemingly has a fragrance around every corner at this year’s Esxence. One of her creations I was most excited to experience was also the fourth chapter in the olfactory love story between Julien Blanchard (Jul) and Madalina Stoica (Mad); or more colloquially know as Jul et Mad. When last we left them they were on a Palazzo in Venice. For the fourth chapter, Aqua Sextus they are in Aix-en-Provence where they will marry. Mme Zarokian has created a collaboration of green notes for the fields, watery notes for the 100 fountains, and a bouquet of florals for the bride. This is one of Mme Zarokian’s most assured constructions and it captures all of the lovely emotions of Jul et Mad.
If there is one thing I have learned in attending my third Esxence is when someone you respect suggests you check out a line, I go check out that line. Roja Dove said the best new line he tried was Le Galion and so it was on my schedule today. What pushed it closer to the top was running into perfumer Thomas Fontaine who helped compose many of the Le Galion line and told me these were right up my alley. Brand owner Nicolas Chabot kindly showed me all eight of the fragrances and this collection is everything one could want in a Retro Nouveau line. By finding modern alternatives to original vintage recipes many of these Le Galion perfumes straddle the old and the new simultaneously. I can’t wait to spend quality time with all eight of them but the spiced citrus of Whip and the incredible abstract rose of La Rose will be top of the list.
The ever lovely Sara Carner of Carner Barcelona gave me a sneak sniff of the upcoming El Born and it is a licorice and chocolate bundle of energy.
Tomorrow I will be finishing the rounds but before I do that I have the great pleasure of interviewing Michael Edwards on the occasion of the 30th Edition of Fragrances of the World. I think I need my beauty sleep.
Ciao Perfumistas e Colognoisseurs!
–Mark Behnke
