When I received my samples of the five new perfumes from Comme des Garcons to celebrate their twenty fifth anniversary in the fragrance world, there was one which I was most interested in. Over this time period one thing Comme des Garcons has stood for is pushing unusual accords to extremes. Two of my favorites are the pair of perfumes called Odeur 53 and Odeur 71. Both are fragrances of metallic heat. Synthetic to their core. They are representative of those odd comforting smells like electronics overheating. It has been since 2000 that Odeur 71 was released. Now we can add another to the collection Comme des Garcons Odeur du Theatre du Chatelet.
Theatre du Chatelet is a theatre on the banks of the Seine in Paris. The current creative director for the theatre, Ruth Mackenzie, was asked to join Comme des Garcons fragrance creative director Christian Astuguevieille to oversee the new Odeur. The perfumer they chose to work with is Caroline Dumur. The fragrance they envisioned is a mixture of the old and the new on the floorboards of the Theatre du Chatelet.
Mme Dumur nods back towards the earlier Odeurs with her top accord. She takes the botanical musk of ambrette and combines it with the metallic floral of rose oxide. This is further enhanced with black pepper. It creates this sizzling electric pink accord as if you smell the pink filter over the spotlight in the theatre. This is exactly what I wanted from a new Odeur. It is right on the edge of harsh for my sensibilities. I have a feeling it is going to go way past many others’ tolerances. That is what this series is meant to do. Every time I wear it, I am more and more enchanted by this top accord it is so unique. In the heart it moves to the orris powder used by the actors cut subtly with a bitter coffee from the cups on the apron during rehearsal. It settles on the cedar floorboards for the final moments with a woody base accord.
Odeur du Theatre du Chatelet has 14-16 hour longevity and average sillage.
Odeur du Theatre du Chatelet is why Comme des Garcons is still among the premiere niche perfume makers after so long. It carries aspects from which a thoroughly contemporary perfume takes center stage bathed in electric pink.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Dover Street Market.
For as long as I’ve lived on the East Coast there has only been one perfumed thing on the West Coast I have envied. That is the store which is the headquarters for the online perfume sellers Luckyscent called Scent Bar. Adam Eastwood and Franco Wright have been one of the premiere niche and independent perfume purveyors for over fifteen years. One of the reasons for the longevity, and the popularity, is their excellent curation of brands to feature. Many new discoveries by perfume lovers have begun with a package of samples from Scent Bar/Luckyscent.
Scent Bar NYC
At the beginning of this month Scent Bar has expanded to the East Coast, landing on Elizabeth St. in downtown Manhattan. This area of New York City has always been a destination for perfume tourists to the Big Apple. Scent Bar NYC adds a new piece to the itinerary. As part of the grand opening Messrs. Eastwood and Wright asked one of those brands they debuted to make a perfume capturing the energy of the new location. The perfumer they chose is Antonio Gardoni of Bogue Profumo.
Sig. Gardoni was inspired by the classic “I Love NY” public relations campaign and turned it on a new set of floral initials. This is where Bogue Profumo I Love YY begins. Anyone who enjoys floral perfumes will easily understand that the “YY” is ylang-ylang. I share the same fascination with it as Sig. Gardoni does. When allowed to be featured to its fullest extent it gives a perfumer opportunity to tease out any of the multi-faceted nature to a desired effect. My favorite part of ylang-ylang is a fleshy sensuousness which is not usually featured. I had a feeling Sig. Gardoni might also share my feelings.
I Love YY starts with the YY on display. In the early moments Sig. Gardoni uses the sulfurous citrus of grapefruit and the scalpel-like sharpness of violet leaf to find the softer green threads within ylang-ylang. It transforms again as jasmine and rose provide floral backing vocals. This is where that fleshy sensuousness I enjoy so much is on display. The indoles of the jasmine tune that sensuousness while the rose adds an exclamation point to the floral quality. Through it all the menthol-like nature of ylang-ylang breathes fresh air into the composition. Ylang-ylang has a kind of custard quality to it which Sig. Gardoni sweetens at the end. He uses tonka, vanilla, and benzoin to give I Love YY a gourmand-y base.
I Love YY has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
I Love YY is a very Bogue-esque floral as Sig. Gardoni examines his keynote from three different perspectives. It is a fitting representative of one of the great cities of the world as well as one of the great perfume stores as they open their new location.
Disclosure: This review is based on samples provided by Luckyscent/Scent Bar NYC.
Editor’s Note: The address of Scent Bar NYC is 244 Elizabeth St. It is on the same street as Le Labo and Atelier Cologne. Those of you heading to Sniffapalooza Fall Ball this weekend will be spending part of your Sunday there.
In the fall of 1986 I remember going to my local comic store to pick up that week’s new issues. Stuck in my bag was an issue I hadn’t requested. It had a picture of a smiley face button with blood spatter on it. I looked at the owner and he said, “I think it is going to change the way comics are seen.” I remember snorting a bit at that. At that time reading comic books was seen as my being unable to let go of my adolescence. What that issue would begin was a difference in the way comic books would even be called. From that point on there would be graphic novels. The story which began that was Watchmen by writer Alan Moore.
The story tells of a world where superheroes exist, and they aren’t necessarily admired. Set against the backdrop of Cold War politics and an America where Richard Nixon is serving his fifth consecutive term as President. The story begins with the death of Edward Blake. Unknown to the general public he was also the costumed hero The Comedian. One of his compatriots believes someone knows the other heroes’ identities and is beginning to try and kill them. The story moves forward as it alternates origin stories of each hero with issues which move the current mystery forward.
Besides the normal pages of panels which told the story in art and word bubbles each issue of Watchmen also had supplemental material. Mr. Moore would add in reproductions of letters or dossiers all adding depth to the story. The best of these was a story told entirely in text called “Tales of the Black Freighter” It was a macabre pirate story with a twist at the end which was a mirror to the characters in the main story. As a reader the question I always had was which character mapped to which one in the pirate tale. Mr. Moore made it ambiguous enough it was only in hindsight that it would become clear.
As much as I am laudatory towards the story, artist Dave Gibbons was the final ingredient to why this was so different. The most widely cited example of this is issue #5 entitled Fearful Symmetry. Mr. Gibbons laid out the pages so they would be roughly analogous reflections of each other so first page mirrored last page and so on. It is only made clear this is happening when you reach the middle of the issue and see the symmetry on either side of the stapled spine.
That my comic book seller was prescient has been the way Watchmen has been praised. It is called a graphic novel because it is included on lists of the best novels written. It deserves every bit of praise. It is the reason I have so much interesting reading thirty-three years later as it has spawned the current age of graphic novels.
I wanted to write about this as HBO is about to release a new version of Watchmen extrapolating from the end of the graphic novel. I will definitely be writing about it once it has finished. I wish them luck. I will be watching and wondering if this creative team can live up to the legacy they are continuing.
This column is often dictated by my digging through the discount bins while Mrs. C is shopping elsewhere. While digging a few weeks a go I ran across some gold bars in the bin. Those bottles meant to look like gold ingots is Paco Rabanne 1 Million. Especially for this time of year it is a real Discount Diamond.
Paco Rabanne has been making perfume since 1969. Prior to the 2000’s those early perfumes were some of the best of their kind. After we entered the new century Paco Rabanne became a more aggressive mass-market fragrance producer. A pillar perfume followed by multiple flankers. While most of the flankers are easy to dismiss the pedigree of the brand shows up in the pillars. In 2008, 1 Million was the new pillar which illustrates the point. 1 Million was the fall release for the year. A team of three perfumers, Michel Gerard, Olivier Pescheux and Christophe Raynaud would combine for a rich Oriental style.
1 Million opens with a chilled citrus accord composed of mandarin and spearmint. The mint is where the frost comes from. It is given a blast of spicy heat as cinnamon removes that icy coating. The cinnamon citrus accord is deep and satisfying. The perfumers then add in rose and leather. The leather is a soft driving glove type. It creates a trapezoid of animalic floral spicy citrus. This is where 1 Million smells as good as the name promises. It fades to a typical vanilla sweetened amber base accord.
1 Million has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
1 Million is the kind of fragrance that shines in the colder weather. It is versatile while adding a classic Oriental aesthetic to any dresser. If you come across a bottle in your local discount bin it is worth its weight in….well you know.
Disclosure: This review is based on a bottle I purchased.
All the way down here at Colognoisseur HQ we had a visit from the aurora borealis. Watching the undulating lights from my porch was a surprise. It was also serendipity as I was wearing a perfume inspired by that phenomenon, Maison Crivelli Aurora Boreale.
I only recently obtained the collection of five perfumes released by creative director Thibaud Crivelli starting last year. One of the things that made me seek the brand out was the idea of combining texture and keynote. When a creative director seeks to add a conscious textural element it can elevate the fragrance beyond the ordinary. When I tried all five perfumes, I found M. Crivelli was not just writing press releases he was achieving his desired aesthetic. The one which captured my attention most fully was the brief of absinthe over snow colored by the aurora overhead. Working with perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer, M. Crivelli imagined a frosty fougere over which absinthe and shadow reigns.
Absinthe Boreale opens on an icy accord of artemisia, lemon, and geranium. That’s the chilly field of snow you stand upon. Mme Feisthauer finds a pleasantly balanced chill so that the lavender rises over it with an herbal-focused floral scent. It pulls at the geranium as along with the wormwood the sky begins to undulate in waves of glowing green. This is a wonderfully realized accord of shadow and light. Mme Feisthauer further adds texture with oakmoss representing the darkness of the night sky behind the aurora. The scent of the nearby woods adds the finishing touch.
Absinthe Boreale has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
Absinthe Boreale is a great fall fougere. It complements the frost in the air with an olfactory version all its own. I would also encourage readers to try the other Maison Crivelli releases if you also enjoy textural perfumes. M. Crivelli is doing a great job of living up to his potential.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.
I am usually a proponent for change. Even when it comes at the expense of something that works well. A year ago the fragrance side of fashion designer John Varvatos announced a three-fragrance collaboration with musician Nick Jonas. It seemed like a natural synergy because Mr. Varvatos’ aesthetic has a rock-and-roll inspiration. The change which I wondered about was not using perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux who had been the perfumer on every fragrance before this. I was hoping change would add new perspective.
John Varvatos (l.) and Nick Jonas
Then a year ago the first two perfumes were releases JV X NJ Blue and JV X NJ Crimson. After trying those I was no longer a supporter of change. They were generic synth wood monoliths. I had never been underwhelmed by a perfume with John Varvatos on the label and these would be the first two I had no desire to own. I wasn’t expecting much from the promised (threatened?) third perfume in the deal. When JV X NJ Silver arrived, I put it aside because I didn’t want to be let down again. What it showed me is that being derivative can also have some room to not be generic. Perfumer Nathalie Benareau takes a couple of popular masculine styles and mashes them together. It ends up being familiar but not insipid.
The first masculine trope is displayed on top as a citrus mélange is placed over an aquatic accord. The difference is the aquatic accord is of sea spray on rocks carrying a significant mineral character over the freshness of the brine. The citrus sparkles like sunlight off the little water-filled crannies in the rocks. This leads to the second trope, the use of iris as a men’s floral. A perfumer must make sure it doesn’t get all powdery. Mme Benareau does that by using sage to rough the iris up so its rootier character comes forward. JV X NJ Silver still ends on a cocktail of synth woods but Mme Benareau mixes in patchouli which keeps it from being too boring.
JV X NJ Silver has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
JV X NJ Silver is the only one of these three perfumes I would want to own. It still hearkens back to other, better, contemporaries. If I do decide to get a bottle it will be the stony iris which is the reason.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample supplied by ULTA.
Two years ago when premiere candle makers Cire Trudon finally entered the liquid fragrance game with Trudon Parfums it was an event. The original five perfumes were memorable for not trying to check boxes. Creative director Julien Pruvost wanted to have Trudon Parfums stand out by not following trends. I concluded my reviews of those perfumes looking forward to what was next. Two years later M. Pruvost has my answer with Trudon Parfums Elae and Medie.
M. Pruvost works with perfumer Yann Vasnier again after creating Mortel in the debut collection. This time the pair of perfumes are evocations of summer effulgence. M. Vasnier pushes both perfumes to embrace the saturated brightness of late summer.
In Elae M. Vasnier creates a heady floral. He could hardly do otherwise by making tuberose his keynote. Before the white flower makes its entrance, he uses a snappy fruit top accord of apple and neroli to set the scene. Neroli acts as harbinger of its louder sister tuberose. The apple provides a crisp fruit which will push back at the creaminess of the tuberose. The floral diva is shrouded in a stole of benzoin and akigalawood in the base. The benzoin adds snuggly warmth while the akigalawood adds a spicy contrast.
Elae has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
Medie is a fresh summery citrus perfume modulated with spices. M. Vasnier uses grapefruit as his citrus focal point. I enjoy the choice because grapefruit carries a sulfurous undertone along with the bright fruitiness. M. Vasnier uses the spicy woody chemical Pepperwood to tease out that pungency. It adds depth to what would have otherwise been a typical citrus top accord. The clean woody lines of cypress and cedar provide guardrails for the citrus as it heads towards the base. Awaiting it there is Akigalawood and incense. If there is a commonality between both Elae and Medie it is the Akigalawood. In Medie it continues the synthetic spicy beat begun by the Pepperwood. The incense adds a silvery resinous sheen to it all.
Medie has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
I am very pleased that M. Pruvost is taking time between releases. Elae and Medie seem the better for it. If you need a little summer sunbeam as the world around you cools Elae and Medie offer two versions.
Disclosure: this review is based on samples provided by Trudon Parfums.
Now that summer seems to have finally passed, I can start enjoying my spicy perfumes. Spice heavy perfumes might be my very favorite style of perfume, but they are best in colder temperatures. It is one of many reasons I look forward to fall. Perfume companies also are aware of this dynamic and so I get new spicy perfumes to consider this time of year. The latest to catch my nose is Comptoir sud Pacifique Eclats d’Amandes.
Comptoir sud Pacifique is one of the long-time perfume producers few know about. They have a very narrow corridor of distribution. I have always kept an eye on them because when you can find them there are some excellent perfumes within the collection. For 2019 Comptoir sud Pacifique wanted to try for a gourmand style. Working with perfumer Vanina Muracciole they produced two perfumes. The first Vanilla Café hewed closely to the South Pacific tropical vibe characteristic of the collection. The one which captured my attention because it was all gourmand without the island milieu was Eclats d’Amande.
Mme Muracciole chooses two interesting keynotes in cinnamon and almond. Cinnamon is a tough ingredient to use well. Too sweet and it smells like red-hot candies. Pull back on it and it just smells woody with no fire. Find the sweet spot and cinnamon causes a perfume to simmer. That’s the kind of cinnamon here. By pairing it with the nuttiness of almond she allows that quality to tease out the woodiness of the cinnamon. It is a kind of cinnamon not encountered often in fragrance, but one I enjoy. Tonka bean provides a toastier almond as it mixes with it. Cedar arrives to continue to amplify the woods in cinnamon. It heads to a sandalwood base given some character with some heavier musks.
Eclats d’Amandes has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
Eclats d’Amandes is just the kind of spicy perfume to ease me into the autumn. The choice to interrogate the woody facets of the keynote spice without losing the fire makes it different than most cinnamon based perfumes.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Comptoir sud Pacifique.
Most perfume brands which claim rock and roll inspiration come out more closely related to Muzak. It makes me suspicious of the quality of so-called rock perfumes. Over the past year one brand which has lived up to this has been Jusbox Perfumes.
The brand was started in 2016 by siblings, Andrea and Chiaro Valda; or as they have dubbed themselves V Monkeys. When they have gotten it right, I have enjoyed the result. Even when they miss there is a hint of the messiness of the early rock legends. Up until now the perfumes have captured different eras in rock. The thirteenth release, Siren & Sailors, captures a specific singer and her home of Camden Town.
Amy Winehouse exploded onto the musical scene with the release of her second album “Back to Black” in 2006. Her distinctive voice would invade the airwaves as she found fame. What set her apart was her jazz-inspired way of singing paired with a singular voice. Her voice had an emotional depth which captured a sense of desperation. It turned out the desperation would come from a real place inside Ms. Winehouse who would take her life in 2011. V Monkeys turned to perfumer Julien Rasquinet to compose a perfume worthy of her.
The opening of Siren & Sailors is seemingly a nod to the striking appearance of Ms. Winehouse. It is an effusive accord of peach and osmanthus. The apricot quality of the osmanthus and the lushness of the peach captures an over-the-top fruitiness that would be annoying except for the rose which comes along with it. M. Rasquinet uses the Laboratoire Monique Remy (LMR) version of rose. The LMR natural ingredients are the best of the best. The rose here is that rich jammy velvety one. It is that sultry siren Ms. Winehouse portrayed onstage. Underneath it all runs a current of the demons that would eventually catch up to Ms. Winehouse as rum and whisky form a boozy underpinning. The base is where the depth of Ms. Winehouse’s vocals and emotions come together. M. Rasquinet uses an LMR patchouli fraction enhancing the earthier qualities. It is wrapped in a suede leather accord which also envelops the osmanthus and rose. It is here with these four ingredients where Sirens & Sailors holds a gorgeous perfume note for hours. A set of growly musks provide the final ingredient.
Siren & Sailors has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
Siren & Sailors is the best perfume by Jusbox to date. It is also the most emotional fragrance they’ve produced. As I wore it, I was reminded of my favorite song by Ms. Winehouse; “Back to Black”. In the song she says farewell to a lover by lamenting “we only said goodbye with words”. Siren & Sailors allow me to say goodbye with perfume.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.
The life cycle of any television show is unique. As they age, they change. Nothing surprising about that. A recent show which has started mediocre, risen, only to completely fall apart is “Fear the Walking Dead”.
“Fear The Walking Dead” is a spin-off of the original The Walking Dead. Therein laid its potential and its pitfalls. The writers got to create something totally new within the zombie apocalypse world of The Walking Dead. In its first season it showed us how the whole zombie apocalypse started in Los Angeles. It wasn’t a great start, but it created a set of characters I was curious enough to follow into a new season. The next two seasons were great. The show dealt with how the early survivors relied on different internal compasses of faith. Especially season three, both seasons, were the best of what The Walking Dead can be. Then it all went off the rails,
Over the last two seasons the storytelling has become exceedingly lazy. It is the worst of genre tropes every week. They don’t have enough fuel one week leading them into risking themselves to get it. The very next week they’re off on extended joyrides without a mention of conserving gas. Its just carelessness by the writers. The other crime these writers have committed is they have made all the characters stupid, until they need to be brilliant.
This character assassination killed every great original character. It even destroyed two characters who joined the cast from the original series. This past season was so poorly written I have removed the show from my DVR list.
On the recap show “The Talking Dead” they have a segment called “In Memoriam” where they recap all who died in that night’s episode. At the end of season five they should add the show to the list. These guys killed a promising show.