Whenever I am at a perfume exhibition my favorite part is finding a new brand to try. At Cosmoprof North America that experience came to me courtesy of Paglieri 1876. Introduced in Italy at the end of 2015 they are now beginning to expand in to other markets. The basis of the brand is one of travel within Italy. Each of the six perfumes in the debut collection is meant to fly you away to a specific Italian locale.
All six of the perfumes were done in collaboration by perfumers Henri Bergia and Eric Fracapane. Part of the display at the booth was a little old fashioned travel diary. All six of the perfumes feel like chapters in one of those whirlwind tours where you would see six cities in seven days. Time enough to get a broad impression but to really understand the city it would require a future visit where you could stick around for a few days. These are kinetic perfumes which develop fairly rapidly which allows for things to come and go with aplomb. I generally liked all six but the one I spent some time with was Romae.
Romae is based on the capitol city of Italy. In the press notes they say it is inspired by the tiles and mosaics found in the city. I’m not sure I see the connection between a floral chypre and that but the perfume is very nice when all is said and done.
The perfumers throw a fast moving top accord out made up of mandarin, rosehips and pepper. The rosehips have an unctuous quality which becomes a matrix for the mandarin and pepper to interact. It is an interesting way to start a travel scent because there is familiarity but the rosehips add an exoticness which let you know you aren’t at home anymore. After that the components of the floral chypre begin to assemble. Orange blossom and rose provide their part. Patchouli and amber provide the chypre. In another interesting choice instead of adding something which might have provided more of a bite to that chypre accord the perfumers add a bit of vanilla to again finish with a bit of “away from home” kind of different.
Paglieri 1876 Romae has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.
All six of these fragrant travels are worth trying. Perhaps somewhere in them you will find a city you want to spend some more time in. For me I’m going to stroll around in Romae for a while.
Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Paglieri 1876 at Cosmoprof North America.
It is refreshing to see a longtime brand make an effort to strike out in new directions. To be sure it can be a risky effort. You might alienate current customers while not adding new ones. For the Italian brand Nobile 1942 that change occurred in the fall of 2014. For 25 previous releases they had all been composed by perfumer Marie Duchene. It definitely provided a brand identity. When I first encountered the brand five years ago it was as a fully formed aesthetic played out over the twenty or so perfumes which had just been released in the US. I don’t know what made creative directors Massimo Nobile and Stefania Giannino decide to move in a new direction with new perfumers. It has almost re-invented what a Nobile 1942 fragrance is. The former aesthetic is gone and in its place is an attempt to seemingly take classical architectures and contemporize them. It has been an uneven effort but I am interested in trying each new release these days to see how the experiment is progressing. The latest data point is Sandalo Nobile.
Sandalo Nobile is the follow-up to last year’s Fougere Nobile. Fougere Nobile is one of these less successful efforts as the attempt to modernize made it murkier and less delineated than I cared for. Sandal Nobile is a success for the same reason Fougere Nobile didn’t resonate with me. I want Sandalo Nobile to have a bit of murky mystery. Perfumer Henri Bergia provides that for me.
Sandalo Nobile gives me something different right from the start. M. Bergia uses saffron and cumin as his openers. Most perfumes would use something to lighten up these divisive notes. Sandalo Nobile embraces them; displaying them front and center in all their pungent glory. I am a fan of both notes and this opening was fantastic to me. If either is a particular annoyance to you this is probably something to stay away from. If you want a slightly dirty spicy opening, spray away. M. Bergia goes for a complete change of pace that might have clunked but instead works incredibly well. The heart is orris, green fig, and gurjum. The gurjum slides in with the cumin. The orris and fig provide opulence and a tinge of green. It has become a little more refined but the rough edges are still present. This all gives way to a beautiful sandalwood full of all the things I look for. M. Bergia uses a bit of benzoin to highlight the sweeter aspects of the sandalwood. At this point the cumin the orris, fig and sandalwood form an accord which lasts all day.
Sandalo Nobile has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
It is an ongoing act of confidence in their ability as creative directors for Sig. Nobile and Sig.ra Giannino to steer Nobile 1942 into new territory. It might be a bumpy ride but it isn’t boring. Sandal Nobile is a successful step towards these goals.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample from Nobile 1942.