I believe over time perfumers develop a style. That is not a provocative statement. What it means for me as a reviewer is when I receive a new perfume, from a known perfumer, I have an idea of what is to come. There are a group of perfumers I consider incredible technicians. Particularly skilled at finding ways to construct perfume with remarkable balance. Part of that is taking a keynote and finding ways to accentuate and shade the natural characteristic of that ingredient. One of those perfumers is Luca Maffei and Perris Monte Carlo Mandarino di Sicilia is a showcase of his skill.
Mandarino di Sicilia is part of the “Italian Citrus Collection” from creative director Gian-Luca Perris. This is a collection which really shows off Sig. Maffei’s talent especially within the citrus style of fragrance. For Mandarino di Sicilia Sig. Maffei works with four different citrus components; green manadarin, bitter orange, and Sicilian mandarin along with petitgrain. How he blends them is what makes this so good.
The green mandarin takes its place early on. It seems to represent the rind of the fruit. The pulp is fashioned from the combination of Sicilain mandarin and bitter orange. The latter ingredient has an elongating effect upon the green mandarin. Petitgrain puts it all in a band of sunlight. Then with the subtlest of touches it all becomes expanded as a floral wreath of geranium, orange blossom, and jasmine surround the citrus accord. It is gently supported by a cedar foundation.
Mandarino di Sicilia has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.
As I wore Manadrino di Sicilia this reminded me of a still life painted in perfumed brushstrokes. The shading of everything as this develops is fun to experience especially in the summer. I look forward to more from Sig. Maffei.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Neiman-Marcus.