I think Diptyque is having a period of quiet excellence. Some of it is easy to attribute to the simple fact that they have been a part of the niche perfume landscape for nearly thirty years. When there are brands that come and go in thirty months it can become simple to forget that which has always been there. Much of this renaissance at Diptyque I can lay at the nose of perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin who has been doing some of his best recent work for the brand. It is reminiscent to the body of work that Olivia Giacobetti did for ten years starting in 1996 at Dipryque. There is something about this brand which allows perfumers the opportunity to create with abandon. I was excited to receive the latest by M. Pellegrin Kimonanthe.
Kimonanthe is part of The 34 Collection calling back to the very first Diptyque shop on 34 boulevard Saint Germain. This has become emblematic of the quality I was describing above. For Kimonanthe M. Pellegrin wanted to make a perfume which evoked the powdered incense of Japan called zukoh. Zukoh is meant to be worn on the body directly. It was also used as body purification by Buddhist monks prior to ceremonies. Paired with the incense in Kimonanthe the other keynote is a fulgent osmanthus which has been powdered with zukoh.
Kimonanthe opens with a distinct apricot note very prominent. Out of that M. Pellegrin allows the osmanthus to reveal itself. It happens in tiny steps as apricot dominates things and then the leathery component of osmanthus is there slowly gaining in intensity. As that happens the incense also begins to insert itself. M. Pellegrin uses clove as a connective note between the osmanthus and incense. A pinch of camphor provides a lift to the incense making it seem as if it is more ephemeral as it nestles into the petals. It Kimonanhte ended here I would have been very happy. M. Pellegrin then takes a risk by forming a base accord of sandalwood and leather infused with a milk accord. It adds a wonderful foundation to the zukoh infused osmanthus.
Kimonanthe has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
M. Pellegrin gets the balance on this just right. These are notes and accords which can fill a room. In Kimonanthe they are kept at half that volume throughout. This is going to be a fabulous choice which with to spray my scarves this coming winter. Surrounded by a smoldering incense laden osmanthus is just the way to keep warm.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Diptyque Paris.