New Perfume Review L’Artisan Parfumeur Au Bord de L’Eau- Focus on the Herb

Cologne is arguably the oldest form of perfume. Ever since Jean Marie Farina created it in 1709 it has inspired numerous interpretations and continues to do so. That original cologne was lemon, rosemary, and cedar. The variations generally focus on the citrus or the woods; the herbal heart is less enticing to would-be modern cologne designers. Which is a bit disappointing because the perfumers have many more herbal ingredients at their disposal than M. Farina did. When I received my sample of L’Artisan Parfumeur Au Bord de L’Eau I found a cologne which thrived by focusing on the herb which started it all.

Au Bord de L'Eau by Claude Monet

Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin was not inspired by M. Farina instead he was thinking about Claude Monet’s painting of the same name. The name roughly translates to “by the water” and I expected it to be an aquatic style of perfume. When you look at the painting above you should not notice the water and instead notice the deep green hues elsewhere because it is that which comes closest to defining the perfume named after that. M. Pellegrin creates a typical cologne architecture with many of the classical ingredients except the star of this is rosemary.

Fabrice Pellegrin

M. Pellegrin opens with lilting lemon accord buttressed with bergamot. M. Pellegrin creates a citrus tinted cloud which drifts across the early moments. Then the rosemary arrives with brio. It shoves the citrus out of the way which requires M. Pellegrin to sandwich it with orange blossom and violet. The metallic violet acts like a container for the rosemary while the orange blossom softens the acute edges. Au Bord de L’Eau remains with this accord for much of the time I wore it. I found this remarkably refreshing on the summer days I wore it. The rosemary at this concentration carries a verdant aromaticity which the florals accompany. The base is a mix of usual musks which add some depth to the heart accord in the later stages.

Au Bord de L’Eau has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.

I can’t say I thought Monet while I was wearing Au Bord de L’Eau. It would be hard to find anything very Impressionistic about this cologne. Instead it was another innovative artist who I thought of a lot while enjoying Au Bord de L’Eau; M. Farina. I kept thinking this might be what he came up with if he was designing cologne today. By focusing on the herb M. Pellegrin found something worthy of the original cologne.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Twilly D’Hermes- A Thrilling Frill

I have been very pleased with the direction that Christine Nagel has been taking as she begins her tenure as in-house perfumer at Hermes. The earlier release of Eau des Merveilles Bleue this year has shown Mme Nagel imparting her sensibility on the brand as she diverges from the previous style of Jean-Claude Ellena. Through her first set of releases it appears she will retain the minimalistic aesthetic that has become synonymous with Hermes fragrances; refined over M. Ellena’s time as in-house perfumer. With the latest release, Twilly D’Hermes, it also appears she is going somewhere different as she has designed something unabashedly fun but which manages to retain enough style to not be dismissed as a trifle.

Hermes Twilly scarf on a Hermes Birkin bag

The name Twilly D’Hermes refers to the narrow Twilly scarves sold by Hermes. Those Twillys have been used to wrap the handles of Birkin bags. They have also been tied into bracelets, hair ties and other fashionable accessories. It is the versatile Hermes scarf that lends itself to being interpreted in lighthearted ways. That sense of fun is one of the things Mme Nagel is trying to capture. The other is she states this is a perfume for a younger person; a young girl. I can almost see a subliminal label of “My first grown-up perfume” underpinning all of this.

7 Ways to wear a Twilly

As I was wearing Twilly D’Hermes I thought about what that would mean if you were aiming to introduce a young girl to perfume. You would keep it on the floral side you might add a fruity partner and finish with a light woody note. This is meant to be an enticement to add perfume to your day to a young woman who hasn’t done that.

As I wore it I also reflected on whether it was so facile that it wasn’t enough to hold my interest as I am very much not the target audience. What I want is a solid floral keynote paired with some interesting companions. I never found it so slight that I didn’t enjoy wearing it.

Christine Nagel

Twilly D’Hermes has three listed notes ginger, tuberose, and sandalwood. When I saw tuberose on that list I thought that is just going to be too intense. What I was greeted with when I applied Twilly D’Hermes is a fresh slightly buttery version of tuberose which has only a tiny amount of the more confrontational indoles. It is that choice which exemplifies how smart Mme Nagel is. If you scrub the indoles out completely it becomes insipid. Give the indoles too much play and the young girls will shove it away as smelling like old ladies. The choice here is to keep them here but they are like the purr of a contented kitten coming from within the soft floral moments. The tuberose is so light I expect many are going to think orange blossom is the central floral note. As I wore it there were moments when I thought the same. The ginger used here is different from how it is usually presented. Most of the time it adds a kinetic presence lifting the notes underneath it. Mme Nagel doesn’t need any lift what she needs is an atypical fruity note which is what the ginger provides it reminds me a bit of the smell of ginger ale. The base is a sandalwood where the sweeter creamy aspects are amplified and dovetail with the creamy nature of the tuberose. It is another intelligent choice.

Twilly D’Hermes has 8-10 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

I can’t really speak to whether this is going to be appealing to young women. I know I will be watching with interest and I suspect it has a chance to do well with the desired demographic. There doesn’t seem to be anything which should be off-putting to them. From my perspective wearing this during the summertime was ideal. It was a light tuberose floral that wasn’t too strong. The ginger and sandalwood provided pleasant accompaniment to the tuberose. I found it to be the fragrance equivalent of a Twilly scarf; not as rich as a full Hermes scarf but a fun versatile thrilling frill.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample from Hermes.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review L’Homme Lacoste- Rushing the Net

It was the mid-1970’s was when logo mania began. There was a desire by consumers to wear or own something with a conspicuous brand logo which showed off their taste/affluence. One of the earliest of these were the active wear produced by French clothing brand Lacoste. The logo was a little alligator and if you were wearing one you were on trend; for that time. I was part of it and owned my share of Lacoste shirts made for playing tennis in. I actually would play tennis in them because where else better to show off the alligator on my shirt? From these beginnings Lacoste has become an evergreen brand producing a full line of activewear, ready-to-wear, accessories, and fragrance.

The fragrance piece of Lacoste started in 1984 with the legendary perfumer Jean Kerleo creating an elegantly classic fougere. This was pretty much all that was released until 2002 when Lacoste really embraced fragrance as part of the overall collection. In this iteration Lacoste fragrances have become mainstream styles of perfume. There are some nice ones in there but they aren’t particularly different than others on the same shelf. I think this is an overall adequate collection with generally good perfumes within it. Which means when I receive a sample that I always give it a try. The new L’Homme Lacoste caught my attention.

Michel Girard

The reason it caught my attention was perfumer Michel Girard created a beautifully crisp top half over a generic base. This is an unfortunately common practice where some creativity is displayed early on only to fade to the commonplace. Which means the things up front need to be extra compelling. In L’Homme Lacoste they were.

M. Girard uses rhubarb and its grapefruit-like vegetal scent profile. He matches it with the sweet pear-like quality of quince. This is not a common combination which is why it struck me. The two ingredients form a lively duet. This is made even more kinetic with ginger and black pepper. These turn the duet into a snappy quartet. The pepper functions as a pivot for the greener aspect of rhubarb. The ginger takes the quince for a quick spin. For about 45 minutes these four notes are as good as mainstream perfume gets. Then it all gets consumed in a wave of bland cedar and ambrox which is where L’Homme Lacoste spends many hours; unfortunately.

L’Homme Lacoste has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.

The early moments of L’Homme Lacoste are such a good representation of mainstream perfume creativity I had to carry my sample around and re-apply after a few hours because I needed a reminder of why I thought this was good. Those early notes are like a tennis player rushing the net to lay down a perfect drop shot only to go back to a long exchange of boring groundstrokes. I do wish the base wasn’t so crushingly generic because the opening is not.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample supplied by Lacoste.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Lili Bermuda SunKiss- Simple Summer Pleasures

Summer is the time of the year when we slow down. School is out. Family vacations abound. Weekends at the beach beckon. Once we are at our destination, even if it is the backyard, we give ourselves permission to just be. As the day unspools in front of us it is the simple pleasures which provide a large portion of the enjoyment. The glass of iced tea sweating in the humidity as you walk the beach never tastes better. One of the great places to go for a summer vacation is the island of Bermuda which offers many of these distractions; allowing for maximal relaxation.

If you do visit Bermuda and are a perfume lover there has been a perfume brand on the island since 1928. For almost ninety years it has been inspired by the indigenous plant life for their perfumes. On a visit, back in the 1970’s, a bottle of Jasmine became the scent track of our time on the island. Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone has been perfumer-owner of The Bermuda Perfumery and their fragrance brand Lili Bermuda since 2003. She reached out to me and sent me a discovery set of samples of the entire current line along with the new release SunKiss. What I found inside was an island aesthetic full of lush florals, fresh aquatics, sun bleached woods, and juicy fruits. Taken all together like this there is an apparent lightheartedness which runs throughout the line. SunKiss might be the apex of this style.

Isabel Ramsay-Brackstone

If there was one note which shows up the most it is neroli. In SunKiss it comes as part of a gourmand style of fragrance which evokes an orange creamsicle ice cream bar. Ms. Ramsay-Brackstone is the perfumer for the recent releases; in SunKiss she uses some interesting citrus fruit choices to set off the neroli and vanilla in a fun way.

SunKiss opens with a putative citrus fruit accord which is formed around bitter orange. Grapefruit is the easy complement picking up on the tart qualities. The truly fabulous choice is loquat. Loquat is a tiny tart fruit which when extracted as an essential oil it is composed of mainly limonene and alpha-pinene. Those molecules smell like their names and so you have lemon speared with a few pine needles. Then the lift of a few peach aldehydes along with juicy pineapple finishes this lively citrus accord. The green floral neroli along with a rich dessert type vanilla provide the resting spot for the top notes. Once it all falls into place it becomes an orange creamsicle fresh from the freezer.

SunKiss has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.

Wearing SunKiss on a couple of summer days made me feel like I was on vacation holding a stick topped with a cool orange vanilla treat. What was best was SunKiss lasted much longer than any creamsicle which reached my hand. It is the simple pleasures of summer which make it fun. SunKiss is a stand out simple pleasure of the summer.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by The Bermuda Perfumery.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Jul et Mad Bella Donna- Ferronniere Magnolia

Growing up in the south one of my favorite expressions was describing a formidable woman as a “steel magnolia”. The words are meant to convey a woman who is a combination of femininity and strength of character to withstand all that life throws at them. It means that even if the world was falling apart around them their outward appearance and courtesy was flawless. The phrase became more widely known after the movie of the same name was released in 1989. It may be parochial but that movie never captures the combination of gentility and grit the actual steel magnolias I met had.

La belle ferronniere by Leonardo da Vinci (c. 1490-1496)

The new releases for the Jul et Mad Les Whites collection reminded me of this because one of them was inspired by the Leonardo da Vinci “La belle ferronniere” Ferronniere translates to iron worker and so the picture is iron worker’s woman. The perfume inspired by this is called Bella Donna with creative direction by Madalina Stoica-Blanchard and Julien Blanchard working with perfumer Luca Maffei. All three of the made a trip to the Louvre, where it hangs, prior to beginning work on Bella Donna. They would decide Bella Donna would be a contrast of the rigidity seen outwardly matched by the warmth of the passion underneath. That passion is symbolized by a central floral accord shaped around magnolia.

Luca Maffei, Julien Blanchard, and Madalina Stoica-Blanchard (l.to r.) getting inspired at the Louvre

Bella Donna opens with a zingy ginger and mulberry top accord. It is an energetic fleeting accord which I would have liked to have stick around a tiny bit longer. The florals are in a rush to get here and so they run over it with magnolia leading the charge. Magnolia can be a heady floral and most of the time perfumers choose to bring it down a notch by using woods to rein it in. Sig. Maffei is going the other direction turning it loose to form the nucleus of the heart of Bella Donna. He delicately powders it with iris and rose, adds heft with ylang-ylang, and uses jasmine to expand it all. Once it is all together this is a huge floral accord combining beauty and presence. The base is the warmth of benzoin, opopanax, and sandalwood.

Bella Donna has 10-12 hour longevity and above average sillage.

Bella Donna expertly captures the idea that within femininity can also lie iron; or steel. Which makes Bella Donna the perfume of a Ferronniere Magnolia.

Disclosure: this review was based on a sample provided by Jul et Mad.

Mark Behnke

The Sunday Magazine: Sancerre Rose Wines

Here at Stately Colognoisseur Manor as we reach the end of the dog days of 2017 we start looking for ways to alleviate the heat and humidity. By this point in the summer I’ve had my fill of fresh corn, lemonade, and white wines. I start to want alternative summer refreshers. A few years ago, on a trip to buy some wine for an end-of-summer outing I was falling back on my old set of citrus forward whites to bring. I began talking to the wine manager and he said he had a suggestion as we walked back towards the rose section.

While I knew deep in my heart there are excellent representatives of this style of wine I had been scarred by the explosion of bad white zinfandel in the late 1980’s and 1990’s. I called it “pink swill” as it brought out the worst in my wine snob nature. I would marvel as the bottle would empty faster than anything else around it. I found a few different versions of roses which I could use as a defense mechanism when I was asked to bring the pink stuff to a party.

While accompanying the wine manager on this occasion he stopped in front of a set of bottles labeled “Sancerre” but with pink wine in the bottle. I was interested almost immediately. Sancerre is one of my favorite wines to go with seafood. The great majority of Sancerre is the French version of Sauvignon Blanc as that grape accounts for a huge majority of what is grown in this Central France region in the Loire Valley. Accounting for about 10-15% of the acreage in Sancerre is some pinot noir plantings which is used to produce Sancerre Rouge and Sancerre Rose. Surprisingly I prefer the pink to the red when it comes to this version of pinot noir.

The first bottle I purchased was Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Rose. If I classified white zinafandel as “pink swill” I had found the opposite in this salmon colored wine. It had a fruity sweetness of cherries and strawberries with herbs providing contrast. This will be the easiest one to find as it has the largest distribution.

There are other good producers worth seeking out. Look for Domaine Delaporte, Domaine Girard, Domaine Philippe Rambault, Domaine Sautereau, and Le Roi des Pierres.

These are delightful accompaniments to cold meals where you just don’t feel like turning on the oven in August. They are also great in place of the typical deck or beach sippers if you’re tired of your favorite whites by now.

I leave it to 1975 band The Fabulous Poodles to give the best wine advice for these dog days, “Think Pink!”

Mark Behnke

The Expansion of the Perfumer’s Palette

Over the last year or so I have been fortunate to be given a bit of a crash course in new perfume ingredients. The chemist in me is fascinated with the structure of the molecules and the difference in effect moving bonds and atoms around has on a scent profile. Equally as fascinating is the way natural materials are extracted and then further separated via different physical techniques.

It is fun to meet a perfumer who is using a new raw material as they build a new perfume. There is a palpable enthusiasm at using something different. I wonder if the same kind of enthusiasm was present when new pigments expanded the options for the painters. I suspect any artist when given something new to consider they immediately begin to think of the places this could fit into their current imaginings.

I’ve also begun thinking about this because of the new wave of transparent minimal fragrances being released to appeal to the younger generation of perfume buyers. Since there is seemingly a market for minimalist constructions it provides an outlet for the different isolates of the cornerstones of perfumery to provide a different perspective.

What has been trending particularly this year is to use a particular isolate which is missing a characteristic part of the full-spectrum ingredient. For instance, the sandalwood used by perfumer Nicolas Beaulieu in Comme des Garcons Concrete is missing some of the austere woody character. The white flowers at the heart of Chanel Gabrielle can be dialed to a desired indole level by perfumer Olivier Polge. Daniela Andrier uses a specific less rooty version of iris in Tiffany & Co.

What is interesting is each perfumer adds in what is missing with a different ingredient providing an opaque abstraction of the keynote. M. Beaulieu uses rose oxide and its metallic nature to replace the desiccated wood. M. Polge uses a set of white musks to set off the small amount of indoles present. Mme Andrier lets patchouli provide a different earthiness.

This is what will drive this current generational shift in perfume styles. By having more options, the perfumers can more precisely find a desired effect. It is the definition of modern perfumery to take nature and interpret it through our sense of smell. With the cornucopia of new options, the expansion of the perfumer’s palette promises a creativity that fragrance has not seen before.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Tiffany & Co.- Holly Golightly 2017

Tiffany’s has always stood as one of those cultural touchstones where the name is synonymous with luxurious things. Very few brands can be identified by just the color of the container but Tiffany blue indicates something beautiful, and expensive, inside. There are many other references spread throughout pop culture. One of the most famous is the 1961 movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” based on the short story by Truman Capote. The film is much more beloved because it contains a happy ending for the central character Holly Golightly who is portrayed by Audrey Hepburn. I was reminded of all of this as I received my press sample of the new Tiffany & Co. eau de parfum.

Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly looking in Tiffany's in the movie "Breakfast at Tiffany's" (1961)

This is not Tiffany’s first foray into the fragrance sector. Back in 1987 they would work with the Chanel creative team for six fragrances until 2003. Of those six, Tiffany and Tiffany for Men, were the stars. Perfumers Francois Demachy and Jacques Polge would design two classic fragrances which embraced the fragrance equivalent of the little blue box.

After 2003 they seemed to lose interest in fragrance and it was just those two first perfumes which were readily available for many years. I’m not sure when those disappeared from the stores but Tiffany has been without a branded fragrance for a few years, at least. When I received the press release in advance of the fragrance I was intrigued because this was going to be something very different from what had come before.

Daniela Andrier

One consistency was working with one of the best perfumers available; for Tiffany & Co. Daniela Andrier would begin the second phase of Tiffany fragrance. The major difference was for this to be a soliflore around iris. I have frequently described soliflores as perfume solitaires with that central note the radiant jewel. It seems appropriate for Tiffany and Mme Andrier to follow through on this analogy. Finally, this is part of the overall lightening of fragrance to appeal to a younger consumer. Tiffany & Co. is brilliant and sparkling in an opaque style.

Mme Andrier uses iris as her core note. This is not an iris which displays its rootier, earthy qualities. It instead is more focused on its higher register character with the powdery style more evident. Mme Andrier clearly wants to keep a firm hand on the powder quotient and so she surrounds the iris with a set of notes to hem that in. Early on it is an acerbic green mandarin providing a citrusy green contrast. To replace the earthiness lost, patchouli replaces a little bit of it providing a type of abstract iris accord. The rest is all fresh white musks providing lift and volume making the whole construct airy and light.

Tiffany & Co. has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.

As I wore Tiffany & Co. I easily imagined a current day Holly Golightly wafting this. Mme Andrier has captured the Tiffany style in a different way than what came before. Probably a more contemporary way which will appeal to this generation who dream of Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

Disclosure: This review is based on a press sample provided by Tiffany & Co.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Comme des Garcons Concrete- Sandalwood Skyscraper

With the re-release of the Comme des Garcons Olfactory Library plus last year’s Blackpepper, which felt like a Series style fragrance, I was excited for all the wrong reasons when I saw the new release was named Concrete. I was expecting an exploration of the smells of fresh concrete. Especially since it was inspired by “urban cityscapes”. Then I read further to find out this was the opposite of what I thought. It was meant to be a “deconstructed sandalwood” fragrance.

Nicolas Beaulieu

I was still interested because I have had some access to the incredible number of different sandalwood isolates for a perfumer to use. If the perfumer, Nicolas Beaulieu, chose well he could use those different sandalwood sources leaving spaces for other ingredients to fill in. This is what I thought of as I experienced Concrete. The sandalwood used is like the steel infrastructure of a skyscraper. Not in the way it smells but in the way it provides the framework from which other ingredients can fill out the rest of the structure. Under the ever-present creative direction of Christian Astuguevieille he and M. Beaulieu form a sandalwood edifice.

Christian Astuguevieille

From the first moments, the sandalwood presents itself. I would dearly love to know which sandalwood ingredients he is using for sure. What I experience is one where the austere elements are removed while the sweeter woodiness is enhanced. The creaminess is also attenuated but not as much as the desiccated qualities. Then a spice trio of cardamom, clove, and cumin begin to add to the sandalwood structure. The cardamom is the greener version contrasting the amplified sweetness. Clove complements the same quality while cumin provides a bit of the sweat of the construction crew, but just a tiny bit of that. Besides the sandalwood the other keynote in Concrete is rose oxide. I always think of rose oxide as sci-fi rose because it feels like the rose a robot would produce. It has a geranium-like rose effect shot through with metallic threads. This turns it into a perfect partner for the sandalwood here. It inserts an industrially pretty floral right in the heart. A little jasmine provides some lift to the upper stories of our skyscraper. The base uses cedar to provide a cleaner woody partner to the sandalwood while some musk, as the cumin did before, adds some humanity to the final moments.

Concrete has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.

This is an excellent addition to the Comme des Garcons collection. It might not have been a riff on the smell of poured concrete; but after wearing it for a few days I have come to prefer Concrete as produced by Messrs. Astuguevieille and Beaulieu. I am extremely happy to ride the elevators in my sandalwood skyscraper all-day long.

Disclosure: This review was based on a press sample provided by Comme des Garcons/ Dover Street Market.

Mark Behnke

Discount Diamonds: Antonio Puig Quorum- Powerhouse Light

Many of the perfumes I recommend as Discount Diamonds are examples of a style of fragrance emblematic of the time frame they were released in. What I try to do is find ones which have overcome that limitation to still feel relevant today. As I look back at those scents it is the ones which tried to be slightly different from the prevailing winds by taking a different tack. 1982’s Antonio Puig Quorum went for a lighter version of the masculine powerhouses of the 1980’s.

The 1980’s were an era of men who bared their hairy chests draped with a few conspicuously chosen gold necklaces. The fragrances to accompany that were equally aggressive. Each subsequent men’s release seemed to be seeing if it could me more macho than its predecessors. Antonio Puig Quorum plumbed the other side of the question; can there be presence without so much power? Turns out the answer is yes.

A team of perfumers consisting of Carlos Benaim, Max Gavarry, and Rosendo Mateu were responsible for finding a way to the lighter powerhouse. They did it by staying true to the tropes of the day but not doubling down and using a suite of supporting notes to keep it all less severe.

It opens with a bit of bitter herbal green matched with citrus. Rosemary, artemesia and marjoram provide the green. Tangerine is the citrus but it is not what will draw your attention to it; as it is what keeps the green notes from going too deep. The spices arrive next; coriander, nutmeg, thyme, and clove capture the opening trio and notch the volume up a bit. But this time geranium and jasmine provide some relief. A lovely lilting leather accord is matched with a traditional chypre accord all wrapped up in a tobacco leaf.

Quorum has 10-12 hour longevity with average sillage.

I have an original bottle and one I purchased a month or so ago. The main difference is that the greener notes are more the focal point while the chypre has been a bit more toned down than it was in the 1980’s version. The words above refer to the newer bottle. I think Quorum has survived to the present day because it doesn’t feel like it just came out of a thirty-year time capsule. There are inevitable reminders of that time but it fits in the now just as easily.

Disclosure: this review is based on a bottle I purchased.

Mark Behnke