New Perfume Review Mark Buxton Perfumes A Day In My Life- A Rose to Make Me Smile

I’ve said it before the state of rose perfumes in 2016 have made me grumpy about the class as a whole. I was so grumpy about it that I have to say I didn’t really pay much attention to one which was presented to me at Esxence 2016. As soon as I heard rose I was starting to check out. When it is perfumer Mark Buxton providing the perfume I probably should have been more generous. The rose curmudgeon was not interested in this new Mark Buxton Perfumes A Day In My Life.

One of the dangers of the sheer perfume overload of a large exposition like Esxence is you become jaded to the expected. It has a good effect because it allows the most interesting things to literally jump out of the noise. The bad is what happened here. Mr. Buxton said rose I tuned out. When I got home and was sorting my samples I was in a less saturated state and thought to give A Day In My Life another go. I am glad I did because I was drawn into Mr. Buxton’s vision of a modern rose.

markbuxton

Mark Buxton

The structure of A Day In My Life is to use three sources of rose; essential oil on top, absolute in the heart, and concrete in the base. This kind of staged construction allows for an evolving long-lived rose effect. With the rose oil in the top Mr. Buxton uses schinus molle. Schinus molle is a variation on pink peppercorn from Peru. This provides a spicy rose effect in the beginning. In the heart lily of the valley and elemi provide extra floral support. It is here where the rose feels most normal. In the base is where it takes on the modern evolution. Using the rose concrete it imparts a metallic shimmer to the rose. Adding in cistus, patchouli and sandalwood tries to ground it. It never succeeds as it feels like a cyborg rose all the way.

A Day In My Life has 10-12 hour longevity and above average sillage.

A Day In My Life is the final fragrance in the Mark Buxton Perfumes line. Despite my initial impatience it is a fitting end for a collection which has been overall very strong.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Mark Buxton Perfumes at Esxence 2016.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Homoelegans Tadzio and Quality of Flesh – Skin of Day and Night

Every large perfume fair I attend when I see someone this conversation takes place, “What have you smelled that was good?” Over the course of the exposition one name will begin to be repeated as the answer to this question. Thus begins the building of that desired positive buzz. It was at the end of the first day that a couple of my blogging colleagues mentioned the new brand Homoelegans. I moved it up my list to try. By the time I got to their stand a day later I had heard that name numerous times.

francesco gini michele marin maurizio piazzi

Team Homoelegans (l. to r.) Francesco Gini, Michele Marin, Maurizio Piazzi

When I arrived I was greeted by the owners/creative directors Maurizio Piazzi and Francesco Gini. Before I ever sniff a strip there are times I have a good feeling for what is to come. Standing in front of Sigs. Piazzi and Gini was one of those. Together working with perfumer Michele Marin they have two debut releases; Tadzio and Quality of Flesh. The entire creative team has produced some singular perfumes with depth and power.

tadzio

When they were handing me my strip of Tadzio I was being told about the beach and the ocean. As I sniffed I was thinking, “Aquatic? Really?” Then they shifted to our protagonist a young man smelling of the ocean, eating a piece of fruit. Now I connected as the smell of sun warmed flesh covered in salt with the juice of an orange dripping off of his chin. That I got. Tadzio is that bohemian spirit of youth hanging out bare-chested in shorts during the day at the beach.

Sig. Marin uses orange as the fruity note up top. Combined with it is the vegetal green of ivy and the watery version of cucumber. It forms that aqueous part of the accord of salt sprayed skin. The skin comes courtesy of a mix of musks, immortelle, opoponax, and patchouli. Sig. Marin forms that accord brilliantly. Tadzio settles down into that indolent smell of daytime skin for many hours. Tadzio has 12-14 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

quality of flesh 1

The other release Quality of Flesh is not about innocence. It is about the skin of lovers crushed together in dark corners. Inspired by the Francis Bacon quote, “I like men. I like their brain. I like the quality of their flesh.” The perfume named after this is all about the smell of passion.

Quality of Flesh opens with a bit of juniper berry to give a gin cocktail vibe. Very soon black pepper intrudes with that sizzle it can provide. This leads to that dark corner where we find narcissus and costus waiting. Sig. Marin’s use of costus is inspired. Costus has that kind of sweaty body decaying smell. The narcissus with it forms a chord of anticipation. Leather, civet, castoreum, and benzoin take this even deeper. I think this is going to be too intense for some as the animalics pile upon each other to go with the narcissus and costus. I was completely consumed by my passion for this. Quality of Flesh has 14-16 hour longevity and has minimal sillage. This is most definitely a perfume to be worn for nights in search of that which Mr. Bacon spoke of.

There is so much right in what Sigs. Piazzi and Gini have done with Homoelegans. Two well composed releases and only two. Not trying to go with prevailing trends; staying true to their own artistic vision. Counting that others will gravitate to it. Genuine passion in their demeanor and in their perfumes. All of this is what adds up to being buzzed about.

Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Homoelegans at Esxence 2016.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Imaginary Authors Every Storm a Serenade- Off-Season in Denmark

There is always something odd about the off-season in resort areas. If you visit a ski resort in July the still chairs of the lifts carry a melancholic reminder of colder days. Walking by beachfront restaurants with the decks covered with tarps for the winter makes one want to tear them off and yell, “Party!” The one common theme of off-season is quiet. It is a time where you can have the space mostly to yourself. You can be reminded that there is something to be admired in a time and place out of step with the rest of the world. Off-season is off kilter. The latest release from Imaginary Authors called Every Storm a Serenade is a salute to the off-season at a Danish beach town.

Owner and perfumer Josh Meyer has been quietly assembling one of the stronger independent perfume collection currently. Since he started in 2012 he has been steadily improving as a perfumer. He has been taking risks with his latest releases which I appreciate. Every Storm a Serenade is an aquatic fragrance. It is an aquatic fragrance built around Calone. If it was just that it would be another in a long string of Calone-based aquatics. Instead Mr. Meyer takes on the much maligned ingredient looking for opportunities to hang notes next to it which will keep it from being trite. Every Storm a Serenade succeeds at doing this.

Josh-Meyer

Josh Meyer

Mr. Meyer has the basic outline of a story to go with each of his Imaginary Authors. In this case Every Storm a Serenade is penned by Niels Bjerregard. Here is the thumbnail from the Imaginary Authors website, "When Stina, a burgeoning writer, decamps to her mother’s summer house for the winter to write a book, her trip overlaps for one day (and one steamy night) with a brawny fisherman named Ulv. While she struggles to gain traction with her novel, her fixation on the mysterious seafarer results in countless unsent letters, the contents of which chronicle the spiraling psyche of lust and longing. Set on the desolate west coast of Denmark during the tourist off-season, Every Storm a Serenade is a meditative masterwork that will lull you with its well-designed sentences and intimate tone.” Every Storm a Serenade is a fragrance of contemplating a life choice in a place where there is nothing but quiet.

Every Storm a Serenade opens with the medium weight woodiness of spruce. Mr. Meyer adds eucalyptus to form a sort of faux-pine accord. It is easy to pick out the two components when I was focusing on things. In the times I wasn’t as attentive the mentholated green woodiness did remind me of pine trees growing near the shoreline. The Calone crashes into all of this like an ocean wave. At first it overwhelms everything but rather rapidly the pine claws its way back. It reminded me a lot of a high tide moment when the waves can just reach the tree line. Sea spray coating the conifers. One of the things I dislike about Calone is it is too clean a representation of the ocean. Mr. Meyer has used his top notes along with vetiver to roughen up the Calone. It adds a saline bite that is not usually there in Calone aquatics. That briny nature is enhanced further by the use of ambergris. This adds that subtle heft to the ocean accord.

Every Storm a Serenade has 16-18 hour longevity and average sillage.

Despite me going on about off-season this is a warm weather fragrance through and through. I wore it once on a cooler spring day and once on a near 90-degree day. It was much better on the second day. The heat made it more expansive. I give a hat tip to Mr. Meyer for taking on Calone and finding his own space to work within its confines. Every Storm a Serenade is a top-notch aquatic.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Twisted Lily.

Mark Behnke

My Favorite Things: Licorice

Licorice shares a similarity with lavender. In both cases there is a more common version which is very sweet. Then there is a version with the herbal nature of both raw materials kept intact. The very first licorice perfume was released in 1997, Lolita Lempicka. Since then there have not been a deluge of releases but there are five which I think are worth seeking out.

I have to start with the alpha licorice perfume Lolita Lempicka by perfumer Annick Menardo. Mme Menardo takes licorice through all of its various faces. It moves through stages from herbal lozenge to red licorice whips. It was the answer to those who thought Thierry Mugler Angel was too sweet back in the 1990’s.

Christian Dior La Collection Privee Eau Noire by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. Eau Noire is primarily an immortelle perfume but licorice plays a vital part in the final moments. M. Kurkdjian wanted an herbal beginning which he uses clary sage and thyme for. In the base he uses a very herbal licorice as the bookend around which to wrap the immortelle. It is these choices which make Eau Noire the excellent perfume it is.

brin-de-reglisse

Hermes Hermessence Brin de Reglisse by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. This fragrance is a study in the herbal nature of licorice and lavender together. It is all accomplished in M. Ellena’s characteristic transparent style. It is a marvel that this never becomes oppressively sweet or overtly cloying; it stays right in the pocket all the way through.

Serge Lutens Boxeuses is one of the best perfumes in the entire collection. Rich plum, animalic castoreum, refined leather and a fabulously intense licorice. Perfumer Christopher Sheldrake creates a brooding snarling masterpiece with these four notes. Not for the timid to be sure.

I met independent perfumer Jessica September Buchanan at Sniffapalooza six years ago when she debuted her perfume 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire. It was love at first sniff. Revisiting it again for this piece it is amazing what Ms. Buchanan elicits from her keynote with a judiciously chosen set of supporting cast. Pepper and shiso capture the greener aspects. Ginger and cacao provide contrast. The base is a gorgeous melding of the licorice into an earthy woody base of cedar, vetiver, and patchouli. It still remains one of the most impressive first releases I’ve smelled from an independent perfumer.

Hopefully these choices have you craving a bit of herbal-tinged candy. Try these five of my favorites.

Disclosure: This review is based on bottles I purchased.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Hermes Hermessence Muguet Porcelaine- Muguet Under Glass

It is a difficult endeavor to try and emulate a mentor. Even the greatest perfumers can get too caught up in trying to tread the fine line between homage and imitation. If you can get it right a little bit of both can add up to something memorable. Tilt too far to either side of the line and you compare unfavorably to what you are trying to use for inspiration. Even the most precise technicians can fail to find the right balance. It is how I feel about the new Hermes Hermessence Muguet Porcelaine.

As in-house perfumer for Hermes Jean-Claude Ellena begins to wind down his career I imagine there are some things he wants to check off his to-do list. As an artist inspired by Edmond Roudnitska; especially the muguet gold standard Diorissimo it was only a matter of time until M. Ellena tried his own version.

ellena

Jean-Claude Ellena

As soon as I heard about this I know I expected sheer because that is what M. Ellena does. Except this time the transparency has the effect of keeping me at arm’s length. On the days I wore Muguet Porcelaine I was reminded of the first verse of the Emerson, Lake, & Palmer song Karn Evil 9:

Welcome back my friends to the show that never ends

We’re so glad you could attend

Come Inside! Come Inside!

There behind the glass is a real blade of grass

Be careful as you pass

Move Along! Move Along!

If you substitute muguet for blade of grass this is how I felt about Muguet Porcelaine; similar to a museum exhibit well-executed but sterile.

Muguet Porcelaine opens on another variation of the green watery effect which M. Ellena has been employing quite liberally in his latest creations. I generally like it but in this case it was distracting as if it formed the first pane of glass. The muguet pushes its way through the green mist but what comes out the other side is so cleaned up it almost feels artificial. This again was the other pane of glass which sealed off the main note.

Hermes Muguet Porcelaine has 6-8 hours longevity and moderate silage.

Diorissimo is striking for its simultaneous effect of floral and animalic. Muguet Porcelaine is missing the animalic. I am sure Muguet Porcelaine is the perfume M. Ellena wanted to make. It just is so standoffish it is going to be easy to ignore. If you ever wanted a very clean muguet perfume Muguet Porcelaine should be just what you’re looking for.

Disclosure: This review is based on a bottle I purchased.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Maria Candida Gentile Rrose Selavy- Rolling Your R’s

It has been a funny 2016 for me and new rose perfumes. Early on when I was receiving a lot of the spring releases I was bored to tears at the lack of variability. I sent out a silent plea for someone to do something different. I guess pleas, silent or otherwise, can be heard. Over the next month or so I have received some different takes on rose. Which put me in a receptive mood upon visiting with independent perfumer Maria Candida Gentile as she presented her new Rrose Selavy to me at Esxence 2016.

Rrose_Selavy

Photo of Rrose Selavy by Man Ray (c.1921)

Sig.ra Gentile was inspired by the Man Ray photographs of artist Marcel Duchamp dressed as a woman in the 1920’s. These founding members of Dadaism were close friends. These photographs led to the alter ego of M. Duchamp called Rrose Selavy. If you say it with the rolled r’s out loud it is meant to sound like “eros ces’t la vie”. Mme Selavy would be a consistent presence as she would sign some paintings and author some articles. I’ve seen the picture above when I visited the Philadelphia Museum of Art. I find the soft focus doesn’t necessarily mask the man underneath but rather makes it more prominent. Which is what I believe Sig.ra Gentile is doing with Rrose Selavy. By using multiple sources of rose she produces a softness which allows for deeper consideration of this most ubiquitous of perfume florals.

mcg in her studio

Maria Candida Gentile

Rrose Selavy is a series of different layers of rose layered on top of each other. Sig.ra Gentile starts with two versions of rose we are familiar with as Rose Damascene and Rose de Mai provide the early moments. Rose Damascene is the version with spicy undertones. Rose de Mai is the fresh soft rose. Together they provide the double r at the beginning of this perfume. Then Sig.ra Gentile starts adding in different rose sources. The woody stems and green leaves fill in some of the gaps left open by the florals. Along with those the commonly sold Michelle rose provides a sort of flower shop accord. There are other sources of rose here as well including an accord designed by Sig.ra Gentile. The r’s keep rolling along the longer you wear Rrose Selavy.

Rrose Selavy has 12-14 hour longevity and above average sillage.

I often talk about ingredients being used in perfume in overdose. A single ingredient or two pushed to a high concentration. It has the effect of allowing that extroverted raw material the opportunity to elicit subtleties not always apparent if used at a more normal level. Rrose Selavy is just one huge overdose of rose all by itself. Except instead of one ingredient Sig.ra Gentile uses multiple sources which add up to the overdose. When I wore Rrose Selavy it was interesting what would stand out from one moment to the next. There were times it was honeyed while at others spicy or green or ethereal. I put out a request to the universe for a different kind of rose; Rrose Selavy seems to be my answer.

Disclosure: this review was based on a sample provided by Maria Candida Gentile at Esxence 2016.

Mark Behnke

The Sunday Magazine: Prince

2016 has been a hard year for musical trendsetters. In the first 120 days it feels like we have lost more than usual. David Bowie, Glenn Frey, Phife Dawg, and Merle Haggard. Each of these musicians are responsible for defining their particular genre of music. All of them take up large amounts of space in my digital music library. When they passed away I was sad but it was shallow; lasting a day perhaps. I played a few of their songs and moved on.

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Prince

When a celebrity passes away I always get a read on how subtly they affected me by how I react to the announcement of their passing. The first musician who somehow connected to me deeper than I thought was Keith Moon the drummer for The Who. When it was announced he had died in 1978 I immediately wiped away tears. I was in my early punk days. Mr. Moon was one of the earliest punks ever. Kicking over his drum set at the end of every The Who concert while Pete Townsend crashed his guitar against the stage was the kind of emotion I admired in my artists. I think my reaction to his passing came about because I didn’t want to believe that being an iconoclast was equivalent to a short lifetime. It is that moment when I have to blink back tears which tells me how much the art of a particular artist means to me.

This past Thursday when I saw the headline that Prince had died my emotions rose again. I have been listening to his music a lot including a personal favorite which is not seen as one of his best; the “Batman” album. The geek in me was elated someone as cool as Prince could be inspired by the same comics I adored.

I also am a fan of great rock guitarists. In that discussion I have always thought Prince was not sufficiently rated as high as he should have been. When I saw him live for the first time in February of 1983 in Macon, GA I knew he was funky. When I walked out I had discovered he was an elite rock guitarist. Solo after solo made me realize how much there was to his skill. In the video above from the 2004 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Induction his guitar solo on “While My Guitar Gently Weeps” leaves visual evidence of his virtuosity.

He used his influence to help pave the way for many female artists during a time when they were seen as less bankable than their male counterparts. He made one of the great rock movies of all-time in “Purple Rain” followed up with one of the worst; “Under the Cherry Moon”. He spoke softly which made me listen more closely.

One of the things I enjoyed about the public reaction to the announcement of his death was instead of flowers piling up at memorials; dance parties broke out all over the world. It seemed fitting that the world was going to party like its 1999 with unshed tears in their eyes.

Mark Behnke

Discount Diamonds: Avon Little Black Dress- Modern Versatility

For those of us who are of the Baby Boomer generation one of your earliest encounters with perfume might have come with the visit of an Avon Lady to your home. I remember the visits of our local Avon Lady as my mother would look through the offerings. When it came to perfume Mom was a Guerlain Girl forever. The representative still tried to entice her with the new perfumes. The living room filled with scent.

Isabel Lopes

Isabel Lopes

I had forgotten about Avon as a perfume brand until reminded about it two years ago. An old friend from high school is now an Avon Representative. She sent me a box of the latest releases from 2014. I was very impressed at what was being achieved on a budget which allowed these perfumes to be sold so modestly. Once I delved further I discovered a creative director in Isabel Lopes who believes great perfume can be designed without a large price tag. First step is to enlist some of the greatest perfumers working currently. Almost every great perfumer you can name has done a perfume or two for Avon. One of those perfumers who impressed me with my first visit to the modern world of Avon fragrance is Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

rodrigo flores roux

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

After I reviewed his 2014 Avon perfume Flor Alegria I had the opportunity to ask him how different it was to create on a budget. What I love about Sr. Flores-Roux came through in his answer, “Not difficult at all.” When I asked how he got such a rich floral bouquet from the rose synthetics he let me in on a perfumer’s technique. He told me there is the equivalent of a drop of high quality rose essential oil there which is used to release the synthetic. I asked him if this is like what a single drop of water does to good scotch, it opens it up. His broad smile was all the answer I needed.

avon little black dress

Ever since my friend has been sending me samples of the latest Avon releases my level of respect has grown the more I encounter what can be done. In the beginning of April I received the latest release from Avon by Sr. Flores-Roux called Little Black Dress. I have spent the last three weeks smiling at how good this is.

Little Black Dress is an updating of a prior 2001 release. Sr. Flores-Roux was tasked with modernizing that structure. He decided to go with a classic silhouette comprising a citrus neckline, a floral waistline, and a woody hemline. Onto that basic figure he adds some detailing to give this Little Black Dress some character.

Little Black Dress starts with a neckline of ebullient lemon. The bit of solid braiding Sr. Flores-Roux adds to the lemon is pink peeper and plum. The tiny noticeable bit of plum adds opulence to the brightness of the lemon. It is an excellent way to start. The waistline of jasmine is where I think Sr. Flores-Roux might have added some jasmine essential oil to whichever version of jasmine synthetic he used. Peony and rose also help to create a more natural smelling jasmine accord than would be achievable otherwise. The hemline is sandalwood made a little asymmetrical with the addition of vanilla and a whole bunch of white musks. This creates a plush woody base accord that lasts an extremely long time.

Little Black Dress has 18-24 hour longevity and average sillage.

Sr. Flores-Roux is one of my favorite perfumers. With these Avon releases he reminds me a bit of the construction paper nudes of artist Henri Matisse. A great artist does not need the finest materials to move someone who appreciates art. Their creativity with working in any medium confirms their passion for it all. The amount of very good perfume being produced under the Avon brand, via Ms. Lopes vision, is remarkable. Little Black Dress is better than very good it is superb. If you haven’t considered Avon in a while, or at all, Little Black Dress might open your eyes. At $25 for 50mL it is hard to beat that price for this kind of quality.

Disclosure: This review was based on a bottle provided by Avon.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review The Different Company Adjatay- Pack Up Your Tuberose

Briefs for perfumes can take all forms. They can be abstract paragraphs full of adjectives and nouns with little structure. They can be stories of a time period or a specific place. They can be photographs. The brief is not necessarily the best indicator of the quality of the perfume. Except some of my favorite perfumes of the last few years have some of the simplest inspirations. The new The Different Company Adjatay is one of those.

Luc Gabriel / Portrait Shoot

Luc Gabriel

The story of the inspiration comes from owner and creative director Luc Gabriel. After returning from a trip to Grasse he left a tuberose flower in his leather traveling bag. When he returned to his bag a few days later he was greeted with this wonderful combination of leather and tuberose. He thought of it as “cuir narcotique” (narcotic leather). Working with perfumer Alexandra Monet he gave her the task of turning the real-life combination of tuberose and well-worn leather into a perfume.

This is what draws me to Adjatay the brief is simple. The perfume is not simple when it is on my skin. The tuberose is narcotic. The leather does have that sense of being lovingly used over years. In essence it is a give and take between two very obstreperous accords with neither achieving ascendancy and balance maintained throughout.

alexandra_monet

Alexandra Monet

Adjatay opens with that tuberose bloom. Mme Monet surrounds it with a number of other florals; ylang ylang, jasmine, and heliotrope. Tuberose is one of those difficult to tame raw materials to get the effect you want. Mme Monet uses these other florals to expand on the heady parts while downplaying the indolic qualities. The animalic facets will come from the leather. Which means the tuberose comes at you in ever intensifying waves in the early moments. Then the leather bag fits itself underneath and slams the lid shut enclosing the florals. For a while in the middle part of the development the leather encases the tuberose. Mme Monet used styrax, castoreum, and papyrus as the primary components of her leather accord. It does carry the sense of being a well-loved piece of luggage used often. I can envision the stickers of faraway places on the side of it. This leather accord cannot keep the tuberose down for long and those narcotic waves again build in intensity until precise balance is achieved. Eventually a sandalwood and musk base accord provides a landing pad for Adjatay.

Adjatay has 12-14 hour longevity and above average sillage.

Adjatay was my favorite new perfume at Esxence 2016. The intensity of the tuberose paired with the depth of the leather appealed to me. Adjatay is a simple story told well, in perfumed prose, of packing up your tuberose in a leather suitcase.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample from The Different Company I received at Esxence 2016.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Masque Milano L’Attesa- The Long-Tailed Iris

One of the most exciting trends at Esxence 2016 was the work from the younger generation of perfumers. For any art form to remain vital there needs to be a steady flow of new visions from younger frames of reference. This has led to each of these perfumers finding their own stylistic method. With perfumer Luca Maffei I am beginning to believe he has a desire to source new raw materials and use them. He is like a painter given a new color to work with as he realizes where it might fit. In his first perfume for Masque Milano called L’Attesa this shows.

For this latest act of the ongoing perfumed opera creative directors Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi take us to Act III Scene I. L’Attesa is the beginning of the grand romance which will evolve into Act III Scene IV otherwise known as the previous release Tango. Tango is that moment when the passion spills over. L’Attesa is the time where that passion is born in the intense wash of first love. The concept was to make an iris perfume where the axis of iris would remain throughout the entire development. This is not an easy effect to achieve. It is costly as it takes a lot of expensive iris raw materials. Too much of any one ingredient has the possibility of overwhelming anything else. The solution they hit upon was to use three different sources of iris and to stack them upon each other. This allowed for an evolving iris effect throughout the time I wore L’Attesa emphasizing different parts of iris as a raw material. That is the clever technical effect. Sig. Maffei’s new toy is a CO2 extract of beer. He uses it as the linchpin of a fermenting champagne accord that is an ideal match for the iris in the early stages.

riccardo luca alessandro

Riccardo Tedeschi, Luca Maffei, Alessandro Brun (l. to r.)

L’Attesa opens with the very familiar powdery iris effect bolstered with some neroli. The champagne accord follows right away. When I say champagne accord you’re probably thinking fizzy aldehydes, a bit of alcoholic bite, maybe a little tonka. The finished product. Sig. Maffei instead wanted to capture the champagne at an earlier stage; when it was fermenting. While it was flat, a little sour, and yeasty. If you think that sounds unpleasant you won’t once you try L’Attesa. The beer extract provides the sourness of hops and the bread-like yeastiness. The rest of it is coming up with a flat white grape effect. The fermenting champagne accord turns out to be a compelling partner for the powdery orris. Pulling it in a less pretty direction; no less interesting for that. It then sets up the use of the more precious solid iris extracts in the heart and base. Once you move to something like orris butter the powdery is dialed way down in favor of the root and rhizome orris is actually compounded from. As L’Attesa moves into the heart this earthier iris sets up shop alongside tuberose and ylang ylang. It provides a traditional floral heart, extremely decadent, as these three blustery florals achieve a balance. The base continues the deepening of the earthiness vibe of the iris to which a refined leather accord is added. This is the beginning of the tango as the iris and leather begin to approach each other knowing they are in the early stages of love.

L'Attesa has 12-14 hour longevity with moderate sillage.

I have spent a couple of days just luxuriating in the long-tail iris that is L’Attesa. It is a perfume tailor made for those days when you want to loll around the house. Sig. Brun and Sig. Tedechi are trusting their brand to many of the best young perfumers working. L’Attesa shows that faith has been rewarded again. Sig. Maffei has created a signature perfume which exemplifies all of his best qualities as a perfumer.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample from Masque Milano at Esxence 2016.

Mark Behnke